Fiesta-fiestahan…

Barangay fiestas in metropolitan Manila are usually boring. They’re just token displays – para lang masabing mayroon pa din Fiesta. It lacks zest and life. It cannot be compared to the town and barrio fiestas in the provincias.

Fiesta is not only a Catholic event but a celebration of an original Filipino tradition. It recognizes our Christian history, our Catholic founding and with it, we remember the past that created our towns that set the course to shaping the very foundations of our communities.

The patron Saint of our town is San Guillermo, we share this Catholic hero with many other barrio’s in Muntinlupa. For many years, since we moved here, the people hardly celebrates the feast. It’s just another week, another Sunday. Well, you’ll see some poorly organized ati-atihan and banderitas made of thrash and that’s it.

Then something strange started to happen last week.

Traffic jam!

I’ve observed this past week, especially Sunday, an unusual mood among the people. For the first time I saw people really celebrating the fiesta. No better indicator of people having a good time than counting the number of drunk people in the streets! Families cooked good food for the table.  The undersized streets of the subdivision were crowded. In the covered court, there were games and shows. And there’s traffic – where are these people coming from? I’ve never seen anything like it, here.

There was a parade with Higantes and some youth dancing to the beat of a hip hop groove. The San Guillermo procession had some old ladies dressed in classic Filipiniana terno dancing while the marching band played a classic march tune. Am I dreaming? I can’t be dreaming. We are truly celebrating he feast of San Guillermo!

Then my Father came out to see the parade. “Eleksyon na talaga, daming pera pag eleksyon, pati Fiesta masaya”.

It’s a good dream.

Is it true that our history is not true?

I met with some friends  a couple of days ago and had an interesting discussion about Philippine History and the need to bring it closer to the mainstream Filipino. A hearty Filipino breakfast was served as usual in the generous home of  a man who I admire and respect not only because of his accomplishments in Filipinismo but for the kind of person that he is. He welcomes me as if I’m someone who belongs to his house, and he always listens to what I have to say about history — to think that I’m young and hold no authority in history like him. Of course, these meetings are not complete without his amazing recollections of how it was back then, how everything was before, and how it started to change afterwards. I’m a sucker for stories about life in Old Filipinas. Admittedly, I’m such a zealous antiquarian (people who know me well know what I mean); my fascination with our unique history, our past, has brought me around the country. I’ve always wanted to study and appreciate it more. This desire of discovery only increases as the day goes by.

At first I thought that this love, this interest in Filipino history, is innate in every Filipino. But of course, as you grow older, you understand that there’s lack of real appreciation and awareness among us. History is regarded as mere dates and events, no thanks to our schools’ superficial approach in history education. We’re fed with stories of blood-spattered revolts and fierce struggles but never did they teach us the appreciation of our language, culture, and traditions — all integral ingredients of what we know today as Filipino. Sometimes, the past is not easy to deal with especially if our minds were trained to think in certain ways — thus, we can’t blame the Filipinos of today if they prefer the American lifestyle and culture. As for this generation, we started with the ABCs and the MTVs — the American dream is what we want just like what the disillusioned Federalistas who urged us years ago that America would make Filipinos Americans. The generation after the 1896-1898 revolution were all Americanized, not by choice of course but through brute force. This new master successfully reoriented this country in less than a century, something that they failed to do in the other Spanish colonies they invaded. And this has a lot to do with the Spanish language. So effective was their imposition of their ways on us that we began to feel ashamed of our Hispanic first names and started trading it with theirs (we are already talking about our NAMES, ladies and gents). We naturally would want to rid ourselves with what we perceive is wrong — what we were taught to be wrong.

Instead of having a history which teaches us to connect with our past, we inherited a divisive one, history lessons that are out to cleanse out and destroy the memory of our founding fathers. Revisions stop us from appreciating our rich culture and heritage. We try to find more faults, more errors, when we already know they exist. We forget many important things because we were taught to read history in a way that we’ll make us continue to be sightless of what had transpired. We were already educated and cultured when the Americans came — we seem to forget this fact. We were not backward and godless like what the Americans wanted us to believe — we had a Republic for crying out loud, the first in Asia, an institution which they destroyed. Teaching history was perverted to suit the view of a few. Their view and those who allied with them: the Americanist, who believes the Yankees gave us civilization. And then there’s the nationalist historian, who believes in the edenic principles of an untouched, pristine Philippines but still end up calling it Philippines, as if it existed before the Iberian colonizer came. Many would belittle what I say as mere Hispanist chatter, but some of these heralded historians can’t even define what a Filipino means. Even Agoncillo wrote that it’s hard to plainly describe what is a Filipino — this coming from our premier historian. So what do we expect from students? What can we do about it? This is the question we all must ask ourselves.

We already know what the problems are. We know the revolution spoke Spanish and that the greatest generation of Filipinos that ever lived were not only speakers of Spanish but were artists of the highest order. So what’s with the cold shoulder towards the Spanish language? Are some people afraid of the potential that Filipinos might achieve? That they we might finally uncover the well filled with lies and deceit in our history? Why is it being largely ignored? Some argue that there is no more use for it. Some probably out of contempt and hate; they simply don’t want it around. We have to be reasonable, as I’ve been saying in my previous posts. we now live in a world where English is the language in the world of business. This is an advantage, definitely, and it would be a mistake not to use it. But continuing to suppress the Spanish language and avoiding its inclusion from our schools is unjust. By this, we continue to separate our children from our written history of almost 400 years!

Sometime in the early 1900s, the Americans started reorienting the Filipino mind. The forced imposition of English and the restructuring of the government commenced. Prominent Filipinos even started to push for statehood but the Americans never even intended to marry into our society. Their intention was clear right from the moment they took Intramuros: neocolonialism. American dream? It remained a dream forever. The American never had the intention of giving political equality to a nation which they deprived of its independence. They destroyed the first republic, a government whose existence they failed to recognize. To them, we were considered as lowly “negroes” and savages in the worst epoch of the modern world. They justified their occupation with benevolence and democracy. The genocidal war against those who resisted is probably the greatest cover up in our modern history. Why is this not taught in school? Because it would be too harsh for the America that we know of from history books. They were, after all, according to our books, benevolent.

English was introduced only in the early 1900s at a time when Filipinos were already using Spanish as the language (as Srª Soledad Lacson-Locsín calls it). Something that many historians try to dismiss but with overwhelming documentation (in Cebú, the Acta de Gobierno and almost all government papers were written in Spanish until the mid 1900s; this was prevalent in most of our old towns) available in written Spanish. It’s impossible to deny that its status was indeed national. It’s historical revisionism to claim that it never was. How many people spoke Spanish is subject to debate, as some contemporary historians claim that it was not even spoken by one percent of the total population, a gross exaggeration in my opinion. The Ford Report indicates otherwise as it details the widespread use of Spanish. Carlos Palanca made similar observations in a separate document. Pío Andrade, Jr. has written that much of Chinatown spoke Spanish! As if our literary giants who wrote in Spanish were not enough to convince us that there is a need to bring it back. We have yet to see a Rizal or even a Recto equivalent from our English writers. Our contemporary writers’ work would turn pale in comparison to our Hispano writers. I know it’s an unfair comparison but this happens to be the truth. Some might never had the chance to learn it but this was because of the conditions brought by the new political rules imposed on us. History shows us that the Spaniards public school intended to teach it at the end of 1800s. It failed because the Spaniards were preoccupied with issues of empire survival (Spain was then undergoing political crises). There was no one to teach the language. What I believe is that there were varying degrees of how the language was used, but its status as the official language was never in question back then. Its decline started when it was removed and replaced with English. The role Spanish played in our national history is an enormous one. Add to this is the more than twenty thousand adopted Spanish words that we have in Tagalog. This alone should be enough to bring it back in the classrooms. But why are we encountering so much resistance in its reintroduction? Let me go back to my earlier statement, “we were taught wrong”, for if we understand its value, historically we would never give it up. It was the late senator Blas Ople who said that its removal was a “strategic error” on our part. It was a blunder of epic proportions. How I wish all our children can read Rizal, Recto, Mabini and all our great men of letters in their original.

Keep close to nature’s heart…wash your spirit clean!

Boiling mud pool

It wasn’t my first time but it was the first time I wanted to reach the top. Almost but not quite – we ran out of time. The journey up was really amazing and this makes up for our failure to reach the top. In the end we were happy with our trek. I personally don’t feel any disappointment, being close to nature was enough for me.

In 1994 and 1996 I was in Makiling with some friends. In both trek, the mud springs is the last destination as we never had any intention of going all the way to the top. From this location, I thought that it would be an hour or so to reach the peak. I was wrong and it was an oversight that cost us. We reached the Aguila base pass 0300. Since we had no equipment to make camp, I decided to tell the group that it was time to go back.

The highlight of the trek was the mud spring. First time visitors are awed by the boiling mud, it had the same effect on me when I first visited. Makes you wonder if you’re standing on top of a volcanic crater. The sulphur pond shrouds the area with thick smoke that at times you can hardly see anything. “This is so much better than trinoma!”, I was laughing non-stop after hearing this from a colleague. I thought at first it would just be me and Pepe but its a good thing that two of my team members from the US shift, Lugay and Clinton, happens to be outdoor fanatics. Nature trippers just like us. I’m glad that they joined us.

Before reaching the mud spring, we also visited the flat rocks. Boulders of rock, scattered all over a stream. We met a Korean family having a picnic with their little child. We stayed here for 30 minutes. It was really relaxing and  almost meditative – hearing the gushing waters, birds, swaying trees – You forget about the busy city life. Nature really has its way of bringing a sense of relaxation. I know, I’m going back here.

The Botanical garden was close. I brought my wife here in 2008. The area has a lovely stream where one can take a bath. Its under renovation I was told.. Yes, you heard me – I don’t know what they’re doing there. The botanical garden is where you can visit the Raptors, believe it or not, they moved it to Diliman! The ranger I spoke with said that the Philippine Eagle was transported back to Davao, while all the other raptor birds are in Diliman now. I find it strange that those wonderful birds are now in the city. Aren’t they suppose to be in UPLB? where the surroundings are more familiar to them?

Somewhere near the Aguila base we met a man who I thought was just one of those bird watching enthusiast. Turns out that he’s a researcher. We call him the “Birdman”. I envy people like him. The amount of work they do contributes a lot to the study of nature and science, and yet, no one knows their names. They do it because of their passion and not for the paycheck. I wouldn’t be surprise if they’re volunteers. They are the happiest people on earth.

We walked non stop for hours and I was surprised that hardly anyone complained. These people are gamers! We started our trek at around 0900, this continued until the afternoon. Just before we headed home we ate diner at a restaurant that serves good fried chickens. Taste like chicken joy actually, half the price. We caught a ride back to Alabang at around 1800. I think everybody fell asleep in the bus. We’re that tired.

More photos here

Cebu hermosa!

Cebu hermosa!

While I was in Cebu, I submitted an entry for a photo contest, using my now defunct point and shoot sony digicam! There were a lot of people that joined, as it is the case here in Manila, there are many photography enthusiast in Cebu. My concept was promoting the province not through the eyes of a local but from someone who was from the outside. Even if I have relatives in Cebu, I grew up in Manila and it was my first time in the Queen City. The contest was modest. There was no big prize to be won. It aims to promote awareness among its workers of the beauty that the province possess. Aside from photographs, the poster must contain a title and a caption that should explain why Cebu is a place that must be visited [or why it is beautiful, forgot the "objective" already]. Instead of quoting from someone, I created a draft poem and had my friend Pepe finish and translate in Spanish. I then included the Spanish poem in my little project.

En la hermosura de las playas
En las gorjeas de los pájaros
Cantando a las iglesias –
Fachadas de un pasado lindo
He encontrado una isla más vieja
Que el capitolio de nacimiento.
Me has robado el corazón
El pensamiento y el sueño,
Has despertado completamente
la mente que falta la comprensión
Y apreciación hacia la historia verdadera
De las cosas que has inculcado al viajero en mi.
¡Gracias, muchas gracias!
¡Patria de los misioneros!
¡Patria de los héroes y religiosos!
Nunca te olvidaré
Seguiré recordándote
Mientras sigo andando, soñando,
Nunca más estará vencido el sueño
Para alcanzarte una vez más
Y otra vez para acariciar la hermosura
de la patria chica que es tú
Sugbo

Walk the back trails

A gifted young Sanpablense writer, who also happens to be a friend, has started writing about his travels, recording his interesting experiences and discoveries in his newly minted blog. He writes about places that we take for granted, in his writing he makes familiar places look as if you’re seeing something for the first time. How he writes about his trips make a wonderful reading. Places that’s not too far but very Filipino. It is true what they say, discoveries are everywhere – just waiting to be written into existence.

I remember when I started traveling in search of the true heart of the Filipino. It was back in college, no digicams, no blog not even a cellphone – history books were not enough, even with a students budget, I knew then that I had to go and explore these wonderful towns  and up to now it feels like my journey has just begun. There are few places in our country that’s off limits to a traveler armed with the knowledge of our past. What’s wonderful now is that people like us can share our experiences here. We need more people to join this cause, rediscovering the genuine Filipinas – Perla del mar de oriente!

Unpaid Grave Caretaker: Help!

The man behind ol' Nick's spotless white cross and well tended lawn...

Last October when I visited the tomb of Nicomedes “Nick” Joaquin, I met an old man who was cleaning Nick’ space, trimming the grass, making sure it’s ready for Undas. I found out that he was a contractor, a poor one – contracted to maintain some of the graves near that area. I thought that the National artist and scientist, together with all the graves in “Libingan ng mg Bayani” are maintained by the government. After all, we owe these Filipinos a great deal but no, they had to, their families I mean, get someone to do it. This old man told me that was the case ever since he landed in these silent forested park dedicated to our dead heroes, families of all who are buried in the Libingan hire men like him to take care of the graves year round. His problem is simple; no one from the Joaquin family has ever paid him ever since someone from the great writer’s family asked him to look after his tombstone. The Joaquins must’ve forgot about him. ‘ve already approached Joaquin’s close friend, Sr. Gomez but it looks like he wasn’t able to get in touch with the Joaquin’s relative who can take care of this. It’s not really a big amount, his monthly services cost 100, he claims to have not been paid for two years since the last time he spoke with that lady who he believe was a relative of Joaquin.

Someone, I hope someone with a good heart, a relative or a friend, who would be visiting the place soon, can pay this old man. Unfortunately, I can’t afford to shoulder the bill, I was unemployed that month, I gave him pang-merienda, which is all that I could afford to give. He doesn’t have a number, so this is the problem. The lady who contracted him should call the Libingan’s office. I’m sure Sr. Nick wanted this man compensated for all his hard work. The other big problem is that I forgot his name! Anyway, this good old man is suffering from some kind of a disease, his hand and feet are swelling pretty badly – someone related to Nick must do something. He said that he can be visited at the Libingan’s office, people there know him. He takes care of several other graves in the National Artist section.

By the way, just bought Nick’s “Reportage on Crime” and “Reportage on Lovers”, couldn’t be more happier. Thank heaven’s they’re publishing old Quijano de Manila back. His works, most already out of print, can still be found in the National Library. Including his masterpiece on Gng. Arroyo’s life, even a lifeless story was made interesting by his genius, there’s nothing he can’t do with his pen. I photocopied and borrowed some of his books, some from friends,  but nothing beats having a spanking new copy of course. Amoy bagong imprenta. Plus ultra!

Water without worry

Call it Taytay or Imelda

Developed during the Marcos years by Lady Imelda with hopes to increase tourism traffic in the beautiful yet unexplored historic town of Majayjay, Taytay falls is now a favorite camping spot for hikers, backpackers and lovers. The people wanting to reciprocate the good initiative named it after the first lady. The Cory government wanting to erase everything that is good and decent that came from Marcos reverted back all the names to their original. Only here in our country you’ll find names of places changed with regularity, thanks to Pinoy politics. There should be a law that will outlaw this abnormal behavior.

The view from a vantage point I forgot...

In front of Majayjay’s Catholic cemetery is the towns Jeep terminal where rides going to the barrio where the falls is located can be found. It leaves every one or two hours depending on commuter volume. Travel time is around 30 minutes. The town is predominantly rural with very low population . There is a military detachment in the area because of reported Marxist activities. Well, the only red I saw in the town was pig blood sold in the market. Majayjay is one of the most peaceful town I’ve ever visited. I witnessed a day market where local produce, from veggies to poultry, are put up for sale to buyers who would then bring it to Sta. Cruz and Sn. Pablo where it waits to be sold. This is the towns central activity. The local government invested on a good market house in the poblacion.

Fruit bearing trees near Taytay

It started raining. Then suddenly, it's gone. Time to move.

After a short scenic ride to barrio Gagalot, tricycles awaits to take you to where the trail to Imelda falls begins; the trail is paved so it’s an easy 20 minute hike down to the falls. I saw some campers unloading their stuff when I arrived. How I wish I could spend a night in Taytay but I have no equipment, no tent, not even extra shirts – so I have to come back one day. Though it has cemented trails and tiled comfort rooms [yes! Right in the middle of the jungle], it’s still a tropical forest, and it felt like it is – so, it’s still important to take the proper precautions. Taytay is just one of the many series of falls coming from the mystical Banahao that passes Majayjay. I visited on a weekday and found numerous people around the falls, there could be more visitors during weekends. The improvement of the area has its pros and cons– the important thing now is that we keep the place clean and that we limit human constructions that would alter the natural landscape.

Like life, the falls is short but beautiful. Its water is clear and cold. There are stations along the paved trail where trekkers can rest but it’s a short distance so I walked straight to the falls and found many young people drinking [not the water, I mean alcohol!], eating and taking pictures, who wouldn’t? The place is just gorgeous. I noticed that people would take a dip and get out of the water almost immediately; the falls’ water is freezing. I was expecting that Taytay has become polluted because of its fame but no, it was still ok. This is one of those places where we can learn more about nature and adopt a deeper understanding of our natural resources. The best part is that it’s not far from us.

"trouble with these shots is that you have to go back and get your camera" - Les Stroud, Survivorman

September 2009