Manila and the Western Fruits of Japan

Portuguese Jesuit, Diogo de Mesquita, is widely credited for planting the first western trees in Japan. In his letters to Padre Juan de Ribera he requested the following trees: fig, pear, peach, quince (main ingredient of the Tagalog spread called membrillo) and olive trees. Padre Ribera (d. 1622, Manila), the Rector of the Jesuit College in Manila, corresponded with the Jesuit in Nagasaki over what specimens should be sent over to Japan. Mesquita also did not hesitated to order from the Jesuit based in Intramuros, trees that did not exist in the Philippines. He requested for Ribera to source them elsewhere if not locally available.

The cultivation of western plants in Japan was the result of the Jesuits desire to introduce foreign specimens in the territory for the purpose of propagation. This succcessful experiment would not have been possible without the Jesuits in Manila. The plants that survived the trip are the ancestors of the western plants that exist in Japan today. These deliveries was broadly established that it became “a routine part of trade” between Manila and Nagasaki. The plants were shipped to Japan by the merchant ships of Portugal, whose captains were known to Mesquita (Around the time of the Spanish Governor Rodrigo de Vivero y Velasco, trade relations with Japan improved and Spanish ships visited the ports of Japan regularly. This opened Japan to more products from Europe, Mexico and the Philippines. Under this Spanish governor, the Franciscan’s were granted to establish missions in Japan which in turn worried some of the Jesuits including Mesquita).

The letters between Mesquita and Ribera shows how the missionaries pursued their activities in Asia with Manila being the center. The religious were pioneers in many fields of studies that benefited their converts. Mesquita would went on to become Rector of a Jesuite College in Japan and later on, the first westerner to introduce the movable type-face printing press in Japan. Just like in the Philippines, the religious used the printing technology to produce religious books to further their influence.

Mesquita also contributed to his brothers understanding of Nihonggo (Manila once had a large Japanese population administered by Spanish missionaries that spoke their native language. They were placed under the patronage of the sword bearing angel, San Miguel, as most of them were samurai descendants. The community was concentrated in the area of present day Paco. They were used by the Spanish in their conquest of the Moluccas. This community in Paco would be later sent back to their native land). Japan was an important mission for the society, so Mesquita sent Manila several invitations for local Jesuits to acquire materials on learning  the Japanese language.

Although Padre Mesquita is Portuguese, he corresponded with Ribera in Spanish. The success of Mesquita in cultivating his western trees in Japan would have not been possible without Manila. There were many trees (ie., cherry and morello) that was probably ordered by Ribera from other European merchants. However, it’s possible that these trees was once grown in the the country as the missionaries are known for their excellent agricultural research (like wheat which the Franciscan’s tried to cultivate in Laguna). Unfortunately, most often these agricultural contributions are forgotten and left unacknowledged.

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Reference/Further reading:

“Fr. Diogo de Mesquita and the Cultivation of Western Plants in Japan”, by Pedro Lage Reis Correia

Temporary disruption

I’ll be writing on and off this year because of some personal circumstances that warrants my time and attention. My present situation would temporarily take me away from traveling and research. Since travels and research are the basis of what I write here, updates would not be as frequent like it has been in the past few months.

One thing that I’ll surely miss is my long weekends when I would just travel without a plan and wander around the countryside looking for some old town, some old church, some old stories.

Don’t worry I’m in no serious trouble – I just need to focus on some important things at the moment. I’m certain that things will settle down soon.

I have some articles from the past that I haven’t been able to put up here yet. So once those are done – I won’t be posting any new ones for some time.

This is not goodbye, no, but simply “au revoir”, for now.

This is but a temporary disruption.

2012 will be a great year — it’s gonna be a good one — that’s if the Mayan calendar is wrong!

See y’all around…

Mula Aparri Hanggang Jolo

Reading my friend’s recent article about Manuel Bernabe’s “Al Sagrado Corazon de Jesus” made me reflect on our neglected literary tradition in Spanish. The Cory constitution had shut the door on Spanish as a Filipino language. The removal of Spanish as a compulsory subject was the final blow to a language that has been maligned throughout our history.

What would men like Bernabe think about what just happened to their beloved Spanish? Instead of honoring it by promoting it, our leaders paved the way for its uprooting in our society.

A few years ago I took up Spanish in Instituto Cervantes. My objective was to learn enough Spanish so I could read literature and accounts about our country written in that language. During this time, I developed an interest in our forgotten Spanish literature.

Although I’m far from being an expert I could say that knowing Spanish has brought me closer to our ancestors world. The one that’s closest to us. There’s nothing more liberating than knowing the language they spoke, the music they listened to and being able to read the language they wrote in.

When our leaders decided to turn their backs on what has been historically a Filpino language. We had been separated, without us knowing, from the cultural, spiritual, and intellectual experiences of our ancestors – somehow we must find a way to bring Spanish back.

“Al Sagrado Corazón de Jesús” became a song and was translated to English and Tagalog. The tagalog version was what I heard a few years back. A friend, GGR, actually recorded the song for one of his album. Last week I saw a youtube clip of a group called Koro Bulakan and I had goosebumps listening to their wonderful version. “No Mas Amor Que El Tuyo” according to the Bishops Conference of the Philippines is their official theme song. A recent recording by the Jesuit Music Ministry included the song in its original and Tagalog versions. The song is as popular today as it was half a century ago.

GGR told me that Bernabe once wrote that Filipinos are “waves separated” only to be “rejoined again”. His generation are the most hopeful of all Filipinos, they had a vision for who we would become. For them Filipinos have yet to fulfill their promise and potential as a people. GGR first met Bernabe in the 1950′s. I’m not sure if he met the man again. Bernabe died in 1990 in La Huerta. Here’s his recollection of the Bernabe who religiously attended Sunday mass at St. Andrew’s:

“I used to lived there (Parañaque)... I’m talking of 1954, my mother goes to church there, in San Andres… and my mother would talk to Bernabe (A year earlier he was awarded with the prestigious Orden de Isabela la Catolica and he was extremely popular among Spanish speakers) Of course, I was not inclined then so Bernabe was just another guy that speaks Spanish… Reciting his poem makes me want to cry… his poem should be sang by all because of that phrase (aparri hasta jolo) alone…Al Sagrado Corazón de Jesús is a  mix of religiousness and nationalism… the poet Barcelon (Emeterio Barcelon y Barcelo-Soriano) once said that this poem is Bernabe’s passport to heaven!”

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Hurtado de Corcuera who  with his regular army and volunteers defeated Chief Kudarat (a battle immortalized by the “Moro-Moro”) used “Appari hasta Jolo” as his battle cry. “Mula Appari hanggang Jolo” are words that embodied the desire to unify the islands. We could argue against the spaniards real interest but if they lacked that common goal of pacifying Mindanao that island would not be with us today. Just imagine what Mindanao would be like if Christian settlements were not established. If the Spaniards and the volunteers stayed out of Mindanao, the country’s geography would have been very different from what we see today.

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Olango Islands

Thanks to Cory, Olango Islands can breathe for now. Ramsar (Convention) promotes the conservation of wetlands all over the world.

My trip to Candaba brought to mind Olango last week. Another seasonal destination for many migratory birds. How they reach Cebu is entirely innate – an acquired instinct – as if continuing their specie’s tradition.

How come these delicate creatures can do something like that and we humans seem to have problems preserving what has been handed down to us?

Someone told me that these migrations are purely driven by survival -  nothing to do with tradition because animals do things to preserve their specie. But you know, traditions are the same because they’re established to preserve an identity – the continuity of our way of life.

When the tides are low enough the birds dig clams and whatever they could get their beaks on...

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I was in Olango in ’09. I hope it’s still the same today. Its an Amazing island- the kind that you only see in your dreams. I was worried then that the islands human population are increasing – and as always is the case – a recipe for disaster. It seems that the only way to protect our environment is to rid it with people.

Although I’m not a birdwatcher or a birder (as they’re called) I’m an environmentalist at heart. Olango made a lasting impression on me because it has so much unique natural beauty – to this day I find myself using the imagery of the island to calm my spirit and push all annoyance out of my mind. Cory was right when she declared portions of it sanctuary – we must preserve it for all future Filipino generations to enjoy and experience.

The exposed flat seabed with all its small creature is why the birds come here to snack - this walking big bird included!

Olango is not far from the apartment I rented in Cebu City. A short jeep ride to Mactan followed by a boat ride crossing the strait of Cebu and you’re in bird town. I regret not having a good camera that could shoot long range when I visited. The local guide pointed out some rare species waddling around. On a borrowed binocular I saw these beautiful creatures at a distance.

The observation house of Olango is an elevated structure guarded by friendly dogs – they too are birders. It houses interesting scientific artifacts and literature about birds. The house has been erected through funds that came from local and foreign donors. The binoculars are donations from Japan I was told. From Olango the coastlines of Mahanay Islands of Bohol can be clearly seen. I wish to come back one day with proper equipments and hopefully set up camp and stay for days!

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The visit made me understand why so many people are hooked with bird watching. I thought that these people are a little bit mad but they’re just a  bunch captivated by the sheer beauty and elegance of birds that traveled several thousand miles across the continents.

Weather patterns are said to be altering these natural migration process that has been going on for hundreds of years – we really have contribute significantly in protecting the environment if want to keep these wonderful gifts.

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Today is Rizal Day

After the Rizal day ceremonies there were activities headed by various groups that followed around Manila. The sky as clear as it was when Rizal walked to his hill of death. Military men all prepared for the days ceremonial rites.

Parades and other festivities were held to commemorate the death of the Filipino hero around the country. But celebrations are largely confined to places like Dapitan, Luneta and Calamba.

While seeing all the activities (including the ceremony in Luneta led by the President) I thought that many of these people were just going through the motions. New Year celebrations is a day away and Rizal day, being an official state holiday, is just one of those that is required to be celebrated.

I wonder if the meaning and purpose of this day are still with us.

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In Calamba, the mayor declared the country’s “biggest Rizal statue” in their town plaza as the town’s greatest gift to their greatest son. As if Rizal needed another monument -  a pathetically shallow commemoration.

One day some politician would fund a bigger statue – would that be a far greater tribute?

Filipino politicians are most creative when it comes to projects that would bear their names and faces.

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Rizal the icon is popular. No doubt. There are shirts, monuments, streets, movies and countless books about him. Many people have made careers out of Rizal. The Rizal business is probably worth millions of pesos!

So does this mean that Rizal’s real message has finally caught on?

Not really.

His martyrdom has become the face of our struggle for national identity. Unfortunately, his message was lost amid the fervor of Filipino nationalism and opportunism.

Politicians who claims they know Rizal are liars – believe me. What Rizal did in Dapitan was what he was all about. Our politicians can’t part ways with their rich lifestyle. They can’t be counted upon to cultivate land and minds back in their home provinces.

This explains why they can’t possibly understand the Rizal we commemorate.

Who wants to sacrifice? Not even the seating president is willing to help the farmers in his family’s farm!

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Rizal, first and foremost, was an artist. His novel (taken by many as history books) are novels that reflected his feelings, humor, aspirations and emotions. Aside from the two novels, he wrote songs, plays and poems. Our education about the man does not expose us to the life that he led.

Not unless you’re prepared to study Rizal outside the class you’ll never get close to the real Rizal. We better begin to appreciate and read about how he lived and not just how he died.

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Another topic that is never mentioned these days when people talk about Rizal is his passion for the Spanish language. Most of us are not even made aware that he wrote in Spanish.

Understandably, the Spanish speaking Rizal does not sit well with the English speaking academe and leaders. If we have been taught of the Rizal that almost exclusively wrote in Spanish we would have a different view of this language.

This is Rizal speaking through his character Padre Hernandez about the need to teach the Spanish language:

“The teaching of Spanish can be conceded, without danger whatsoever… Why should we be in continuous tension with the people (who wants to learn it), when after all , we are the few and they are the many, when we need them and they do not need us!… Tomorrow or after tomorrow, they will be stronger, they will know what suits them and we cannot prevent it as we cannot prevent children, reaching a certain age, to get to know many things”.

Spanish as a liberating language? Tomas Capinpin had the same idea. He referred to it as the language that could set the Filipino free. But how can Rizal and the other revolutionary men in our history fight for something foreign?

Well, you see, this is why our educators skipped this part.

One of the most contentious issues during his time was the teaching of the Spanish language. He along with other Filipinos of his time fought to have it taught to the public. They wanted the Filipino to be able to read and catch up with the changing tides of history. Of course, the conservative Friars didn’t want any of it. Up to mid 18th century, many Filipino leaders carried on this advocacy – continuing the tradition that Rizal’s generation started.

Somehow, along the way, their message and that of Rizal got lost in the Filipino consciousness. The national identity that Rizal had in mind was removed and replaced by something else.

We call it Amey-ri-kayn.

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30 December 2011

The Night Goes on in Muntinlupa

A poem by two Japanese prisoner of war made into a song by popular Japanese artist Hamako Watanabe in the 50′s. The poem was dedicated by prisoners, Gintaro Shirota and Masayuso Ito, to their executed comrades in the hills of Muntinlupa. “Muntinlupa”, the song, was said to have been the reason President Elpidio Quirino pardoned the remaining Japanese prisoners (at time of the signing he was in the US seeking medical attention). He was quoted saying “We share the destiny to be good neighboring countries”  after signing the release papers .

It must have been difficult for Quirino who lost his wife, children and other members of his family in the hands of Japanese soldiers. Add to this traumatic incident was his imprisonment and torture. His pardon was a magnanimous act of kindness that our leaders these days can learn from. I could just imagine how difficult it was for him to offer friendship to those who took part in committing unspeakable atrocities against his family and country.

Buddhist Archbushop Shuhin Kagao, who was assigned by the US as chaplain to the Japanese soldiers in Muntinlupa, met Quirino and presented him with a music box that plays the song “Muntinlupa”. It was a gesture that was appreciated by the president according to his surviving daughter Victoria (a town in Laguna was named after her). Hamako Watanabe gave the music box to Kagao as a gift. The latter decided to make it a present to President Quirino who pardoned the Japanese soldiers.

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Muntinlupa was never forgotten by the Japanese. Their government through their provinces of Gunma and Nagano, are active contributors in developing the city of Muntinlupa, especially during the years of Mayors Bunye and Fresnedi.

I’m uncertain what happened to the two Japanese men who immortalized Muntinlupa with their poem. Former Mayor Bunye’s family is said to have become close friends with these men. Shirota and Ito funded the tomb of the Mayor’s father after his death sometime in the 70′s.

The Japanese Shrine... with one less statue of a god. I like paper cranes beautifully bounded and left to hang on the side.

Recent visitors

The flag that hangs in the cottage of the Japanese cemetery

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Changes

The first time I visited the Japanese cemetery in Muntinlupa was three years ago. I was fascinated to discover that countless Japanese makes the pilgrimage to this isolated cemetery every year. Its location is far from being accessible. These visitors rents a ride up to the hill where the local and the Japanese cemetery is located.

Today, there are twice the number  of houses around the vicinity since the last time I visited. I was told that these families where relocated around this area from their former dwelling alongside the railroad.

Such relocation bring with it some problems. When I last visited there were two stone gods (not sure if they call it a Buddha). Now, only one remain. The caretaker told me that thieves took it – and now they fear that the bell (like the one you see in Japanese Shinto shrines) would be next. To prevent this, they have to secure it in a discrete location and bring it out when there are visitors.

The polite caretakers are convicts who has been respectfully taking care of the Japanese cemetery for years. They are not paid for their services. They’re happy to receive words of appreciation and small donations. The man I was talking with has been a prisoner for almost his entire life. He finds it fascinating that Japanese would fly all the way to the country and visit the isolated cemetery while he, “still alive, has not received a visitation from family in Davao for the longest time”.

New roads are being built in the area. I don’t even know where they’re headed. Daang Hari is now accesible through the roads that before only served Bilibid and the small communities in the area. It would not be long before the area around this famed prison complex would be made residential and commercial. In fact, I believe it already started.

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Muntinlupa in Youtube

If you want to hear Muntilupa below is a rare video of the Ms. Watanabe singing it. Thanks to the uploader enka1414 today’s Muntinlupeños can hear this rare Japanese song that came from a poem written by two Japanese prisoners longing for their familiesand homeland. I was told that Japanese visitors of the Japanese Cemetery sings “Muntinlupa” in the garden cottage (where a folder containing the lyrics hangs) to this day.

The way the Japanese remember their war dead is something that I’ve always admire. We can learn a great deal from how they value the sacrifices of their fallen soldiers.

Candaba in December…

Candaba is one of the biggest town in Campampangan territory. It shares its borders with two other provinces: Tarlac to the North, Bulacan on the East side. Very few know that it’s also one of the first to be established and given a chief under the Spanish. Aside from its historical significance as a pioneering Pampango town, Candaba possess a natural environment that is unmatched all through out the province. Its wetland is a major migration destination for a variety migratory birds. Some come as far as the Arctic region! The other migratory destination in the country is Olango Island in Cebu. But unlike Olango, which are groups of mostly protected islands off the coast of Mactan, the Pampango wetlands are accessible to the rural farming communities which opens it to development – the wetland is not entirely a sanctuary reserve.

Rice fields and egrets...

Tagalog came from the phrase "Taga-Ilog" while Pampanga from "Pampang" - both names tells us where these tribes once lived

The wetlands are now threatened like it never has before. World renowned ornithologist predicts, if not protected, the wetlands would vanish in a few decades. A third of the original number of the migratory birds population (from statistics taken three decades ago) has stopped coming to the wetlands. These species has been flying to Candaba for hundreds, maybe even thousands of years, and now that natural pattern has been disrupted.

Lost forever.

Get this, from 32,000 hectares the wetland area is down to 72 hectares.

The birds will stop coming to Candaba eventually,  sad, but with the rapid rate of urbanization and agriculture – there’s little we can do. Cory declared a large portion of Olango sanctuary during her term, maybe the son have to do the same for Candaba. Otherwise, it would be impossible to stop the diminishing wetlands.

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Now, on to a happier note.

It has been raining off and on for two days straight but even the gloomiest of days can’t stop us from celebrating yet another milestone in our family’s life – the 80th birthday of our Lola Marina – who despite her age remains strong, happy and appreciative of family, friends and life.

Happy birthday Lola Marina!

Lola Marina during her birthday celebration.

On my way to Candaba I was worried about the rain (brought by the typhoon that ravaged the southern provinces). Surprisingly, it didn’t cause much disruption during the celebration – it even stopped when the food was being served to those in attendance. God wanted her Marina to enjoy her special day.

“Such birthday celebrations are becoming rare… it is important we celebrate such a day”, say the priest. But what I find so inspiring is not so much the years (a rarity in our time) but the milestone of how she dedicated all her life for her children after the untimely deaths of her husband and the eldest son (the latter, murdered in cold blood). She’s an inspiration to all of those who knows her.

If God painted a picture of a wonderful life, Lola Marina must be in that picture!

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Although part of Candaba, Lola and her family are Tagalog. They still speak the language with that romantic Bulacan accent. They trace their ancestry to the oldest of Bulaqueño clans in San Rafael. Most of her family are still residing in the Bulacan side of the area.

Whenever I visit her house I alight at a barrio called Cruz na Daan in San Rafael. From there, its a short 2 kilometer distance to Vizal Sto. Niño of Candaba. You can literally travel two province on foot!

Here Pampango and Tagalog lives, fishes and farms side by side. Which by the way reminds me of the legendary Tagalo-Pampango alliance during the Spanish times. So powerful a union that when they withdrew their support from the Spanish crown – the Colonials lost the country!

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