The Two Towers of Liloan

The best known landmark in Lilo-an is its historic lighthouse at Bagacay Point

During my last visit to the beautiful town of Liloan, south of Cebu city I spent almost the whole day studying the Iglesia of San Fernando del Rey, a church that has been a rich source of local folklore. It took so much of my time that I never got the chance to visit the parola and the town’s bantayan sa hari.

And so I went back, devoting one Saturday looking for that famed American era Parola and that forgotten watch tower along its coastline.

The Parola or the Bagacay Point lighthouse, which now figures prominently in the town’s insignia, was originally built by the Spaniards in 1857. It’s ideal location made the Americans decide to build a new tower, brighter and taller. William Howard Taft, the first American Governor ordered the construction of the 72 feet parola and it was finish in 1904.

The Parola is treasured among the locals, respected as the symbol of the coastal town – a heritage site that they’ve protected for more than 100 years. Liloanons enjoys its lush grounds and its scenic beauty with the sea as its background – families and lovers can be found under tall trees while the circular road serves as an ideal practice for novice motorcycle riders. There is a subdivision being develop near the Parola, the developers is actually using the lighthouse in their marketing brochures.

Fray Bermejo's "bantayan sa hari"

The other tower is Liloan’s Bantayan sa Hari, a forgotten historical treasure that is located near the Parola, it is often mistaken as the Parola that the Spaniards built. This sentry that looks like a chess piece was built during the height of Moro raids, these amazing small sentry structures was conceptualized by Fray Bermejo, who doubled as defence tactician and whose strategy forever secured the coastlines of the growing Christian population of Cebu.

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* 6  June 2009

University of San Carlos

Nanay’s USC

I have long wondered what University of San Carlos looks like. My mom would frequently mention this school, telling how good its programs were; since it’s not in Manila I wasn’t interested. Several of her relatives and friends during the 1950’s went to this school.

The letter inviting the SVD Superior in Manila to take over the school

Dumaguete is far from San Carlos Negros Occidental, my Nanay’s town. San Carlos City is closer to Cebu than the two provincial capital of Negros (Dumaguete & Bacolod). She tells me stories of her together with her brothers wonder what the thick smoke originating from across the sea, when she got older she realized that it was Toledo City, at that time one of the most progressive towns of Cebu because of its mining industry.

The oldest Filipino educational Institution

The Oldest

Very few people know that this school is the oldest being founded by the Jesuits in 1595.  The Jesuit’s expulsion in 1769 stopped the school’s operation. The German order of Societas Verbi Divini (SVD) led the school post revolution upon the invitation of Cebu’s Obispo. The Dominicans and the Vincentians were known to have administered the colegio in the past.

Its claim to be the oldest school is disputed by some scholars pointing to the fact that UST being founded in 1611 was only interrupted during WWII – gathering its years of service would be greater than that of USC which suffered a halt in their service during the Jesuits’ expulsion. But if the foundation of the colegio is to be the basis, it would be the first school in the islands – and I believe it is. Some of its notable alumni include Sergio Osmena, Marcelo Fernan, Vicente Sotto, Vicente Rama and Mariano Cuenco.

The Museum

Exhibit of the recent archeological finds of Cebu

I’ve always wanted to visit the schools museum ever since I read about it some few months back, from what I’ve read; they have remarkable artifacts in their possession – and it did not disappoint this museum aficionado. Although it’s relatively small, the museum’s collection was very impressive.

The museum was founded by Father Rudolf Rahmann, SVD, an anthropologist and former university president (1967). It is located on Calle P. del Rosario main building’s entrance. It has four wonderful galleries: Spanish colonial, ethnographic, archaeological and natural science.

I marveled at the religious relics in the Spanish colonial section. The artistic retablo of the Virgen del Regla from Mactan can be found here. Coins, images and various altar pieces are on display. There were baptismal records in Spanish giving evidence of the Catholic heritage of the Filipino.

The ethnographic collection includes skulls deformed by ancient tribal practice. Pre-Filipino rituals like teeth mutilation are detailed in pictures and actual samples. Weapons, tools, customes, ornaments and betel chewing containers are exhibited.

The museum is free for its students while it will cost only P30 for the general public (P10 for students outside USC). From Monday to Friday it opens its door from 8:30 PM to 5:30 PM and on Saturday’s it operates half day.

Further information contact: Ms Marlene Samson (Curator) at 63 32 253 1000 loc. 191

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*13 June 2009

Paco Church in Calle Paz

Church of San Francisco de Dilao

With all the amazing stories I heard about this church since I was a child and its close proximity to where we live – believe it or not this is the first time I visited Paco church. I remember passing along the place many many times during my secondary school, having spent some of my tambay years in the surrounding area but for some reason I never visited  the iglesia.

Just like all stone church it started as straws and bamboos. What’s fascinating about the church is that it’s probably the only church that endured the most devastation in Philippine history and that in its place still stands an inspiring place of worship is truly a miracle. It was said to have been destroyed during the Chinese insurrection in 1602, the English occupation in 1782, a massive typhoon, earthquakes of 1852 and 1881.

The coming of the new century was not less forgiving, on 5 February 1899, during a violent encounter between the Filipino revolutionaries and the Americans. The imperialist Americans bombed and shattered the church in to pieces. This uncontrolled disregard for Filipino churches by the Americans would carry on during the Japanese occupation, when most of the destruction in the capital was caused by their attempt to recapture it.

An interesting side story here is that the Iglesia of San Fernando de Dilao was actually formed to serve the growing Japanese residents of old Paco, Dilao was said to have originated from the yellowish tinge of their skin. It’s hard to picture that a strong Japanese community once exist in Paco, “many were samurai”; some were even utilized in the conquest of Mindanao. Some of these isolated Japones folks were in Manila even before the Spanish conquest, it increased its number in the early 1600’s when “refugees” from Imperial Japan found a safe haven in Manila. The Franciscans were designated to preach to the Japanese in Dilao, the Jesuits then went on to take San Miguel – preaching to the Japanese in the south bank of the Pasig River. This ethnic group became so immense that they became a threat to the Spanish government – the Spaniards subsequently began deporting the Japanese to their native land.

Today’s Paco Church is built induring the American era (1931), which should explain its neo-classical inspired front. Its twin bell tower is impressive; it also has a “terraced arcaded portico” over the main entrance.

Binondo

Calle Ongpin - the busiest street of Chinatown

I went to Ongpin with one thing in mind. Eat. So after rediscovering the town of my childhood I headed straight to Binondo. From hopia to jewelry, this place seems to have it all – and amidst all the chaos and traffic you find beauty. Boticas that sells ointments and herbs, jewelry stores, groceries with of course Chinese things, fruit stalls and one unique store that sells fountain pens.

Calesa’s still go around Chinatown, it’s truly fascinating, with all the vehicle and human traffic, somehow these relic of Manila’s past still subsist.

My mother use to tell us that Binondo is an expensive place – so whenever were in the area we would always end up eating at that tasty burger joint near the overpass in Quiapo if not some cheap panciteria. Binondo was after all the financial capital of the yesteryears, but every once in a blue moon, some extra money from Papa’s sueldo would give the family a merry Sunday at some pricey resto in Binondo!

The North Bridge

I strolled around Chinatown for awhile then settled to try out the food hawkers in the north bridge, its different from the other food shops in Ongpins because the eateries sits alongside the filthy estero. Some people could be bothered with the estero’s presence but not me really. Nothing could spoil my appetite in Chinatown. The place serves awesome dishes, I ordered crab rice and beef with ampalaya, I’ve never eaten in this part of Chinatown before, though I find it a bit pricey – it was nonetheless irresistible and delectable!

So the day ends, what a pleasant treat (for myself!) for a long day that somehow ended in Binondo. Now, I have to haul my ass back to Cebu!

My Santa Ana

The house that built Sta Ana

Old home, Santa Ana Manila

I went home last Saturday, 19^th of June, in Muntinlupa – our home for the last decade. It was a pleasant feeling seeing my old parents and two of my brothers – healthy and happy, I’m the happiest for everything is well back home.

The following day, Sunday, I went to Santa Ana – my birthplace. We spent some time here before moving to Makati. I consider myself lucky for I can call myself a Manileno – and what better time to be proud of the ever loyal city than in June (24th), when it celebrates its always drizzly foundation day.

Originally celebrated as “Foundation Day”, designated by the great Alcalde of Manila, Arsenio Lacson, the announcement was heavily criticized by nationalist that the word “foundation” is erroneous since a Manila existed long before Legazpi came, for this Quijano de Manila wrote  “Lacson acted on Faustian man’s obsession with definite historical data; an invented ‘nationalist’ date to mark the foundation of pre-1571 Manila would be pure myth-making”, unfortunately or fortunately for some, Villegas gave in to the criticism and ended up changing its name from Manila’s foundation day to “Araw ng Maynila”.

Santa Ana de Sapa, as it was known during the Spanish years was Namayan, pre-colonial settlement prior to becoming a Filipino town. Excavations exposed that the river place is home to waterway dwellers – the kingdom of Namayan, seated in the Santa Ana of today was said to have stretched as far as La Laguna.

I have finally found my old town. Although I could not recall a single memory of Santa Ana, it felt right, here I learned how to walk and play and pray.

Sta Ana Church

Nuestra  Señora de los Desamparados, declared a national shrine, is a historical Franciscan church that has been around since 1578 – it is the first ever mission outside Intramuros. However it was only in 1720, when Fray Vicente Ingles headed the construction of the iglesia using hard materials, the project the good Priest started was completed in 1725.

The beautiful church was badly damaged during the American bombing of Manila, the liberation brought massive destruction, it was during this period that Intramuros lost almost all of its iglesia. It was indeed a blessing that the great Filipino Architect, Juan Nakpil and Engineer Arturo Mañalac took on the project of restoring the old church.

The church houses the miraculous image of Señora de los Desamparados, a replica of the one in Vallodolid. It is said that both icon was made to touch each other before it was sent here in 1719 by Fray Ingles. At the back of the altar is an “elaborately carved reredos behind the main altar patterned after the Basilica of St. Peter in Rome”.

At the back of the church there is a Santa Ana cultural and traditional symbol. La Virgen del Pozo. A water well that was built in 1720 was so popular here that people were said to line up here. For centuries, this place has been a location of miracles for the Manileño, a well that can be found here was said to possess miraculous powers. So famous is the well that people continually offered flowers, candles and food for thanksgiving until it was closed down by the Americans during the cholera outbreak.

The Chines Filipino's temple dedicated to the our Lady of the Abandoned

The Virgen del Pozo also became a tradition for the Chinese Filipino, confirmation of this is their temple that was built in front of the legendary well. A historical marker states, “it became a tradition for some Chinese devotees of Virgen del Pozo to visit this little Chapel on their new year celebration to offer  various intentions after coming from the Chinese Buddhist temple located just opposite the site…the folks learned the custom of veneration by lighting candles with bowed heads and clasped hands while kneeling on provided cushions…call it a legend or a tradition, the Virgin of the Well and her shrine have a religious and historical value to the folks of Santa Ana, the waters that once sprung from this well will indeed become a symbol not only of  their love and devotion for their patroness but moreover, it will be a testimony of their living faith as God’s people and Maria’s children”.

Osmena Peak

With the Mountain kiddos

” The Beauty of the Mountain is hidden for all those who try to discover it from the top, supposing that, one way or an other, one can reach this place directly. The Beauty of the Mountain reveals only to those who climbed it…”

- Antoine de Saint-Exupery

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We decided to meet with the rest of the climbers at the gasoline station near the mercado of Carbon, there were trips that heads directly to Mantalungon, and we were told that it leaves at around 6AM but the bus had engine trouble – and we just can’t afford waste time. We had to go to the south station and ride a bus that would take us to Dalaguete town proper.

At the poblacion of quiet Dalaguete, close to several tiendas (one of which is Julies – a favorite!) upon disembarking from the multicab – we were swarmed by habalhabal operators, sensing that we were headed to Matalungon trail.

The habalhabal ride is quite an experience; the ride uphill takes around 20-25 minutes. The trip was rough, road was covered in dust, it was one helluva trip. The only downside is that you end up with sore butt cheeks. We all got off in Mantalungon public market.

Recognized as the “vegetable basket of Cebu”, its chilly climate and rich earth, offers an ideal condition for farming vegetables, variety that are known to favor mild climate. Walking en route to the trail, we saw several homes and schools, it was remarkable because of the barrio’s distance from the poblacion and and the main road. Mantalongon is indeed a spectacular mountain barrio.

The trek is visibly marked, it was just a matter of following it to the top– and since the mountain villagers, mostly farmers, are everywhere, scattered throughout the mountain you can always ask for instructions. On the way to the top, we pass by little clear streams and pleasant vegetable farms. Nearing the peak, some kids led the group to the top, they made climbing look easy.

The people of Dalaguete, especially the Mantalongon villagers are good-natured people. I’ve read experiences (most are not even firsthand) posted over the net about the place being unsafe particularly for campers. I believe that it’s not a dangerous location – like all places you’ll just have take precautionary measures, somehow unverified accounts of crimes committed in the mountain are exaggerations.

We reached the peak pass 12 noon, we ate a light meal and rested on the summit for hours, taking pleasure the mountain offers – islands of Bohol, Negros Oriental and Siquijor all clearly visible. The peak grants its visitors a view of Cebu’s coast to the west and east.

Not so Divina

Pueblo gate

My disappointment with the administrators of the Parroquia de San Miguel Arkangel was aggravated by its impolite employees at the parish office during my recent visit. After being heavily criticized by popular heritage conservationist and the media for destroying the icons and retablo of the church. I thought that these people would be more sensitive but I believe all the criticisms achieved the opposite.

As the streamer of the church’s museum indicates, it is open Saturday, like most normal museum – weekends are the best time to lure visitors to stopover. I then started to wonder why it’s close. I went to the church office only to be greeted by its unfriendly staff; didn’t even bother to answer when I asked if the museum will open that day.

I thought at first that it could be my Bisaya, admittedly not very good, so I asked again, this time in English, a language Cebuano’s prefer over Tagalog. “Ma’am, can someone help me, I want to visit the museum, and will it be open today? I’m from Manila po”, my exact words – unbelievably the woman snapped back and said “Please comeback next time!”. It was a rude reaction from someone you expect to be ready to lend a hand.

Admittedly I was lying by saying that I was from Manila since I’m already residing in Cebu City, I lied – but obviously it had no effects.

It could be a simple case of confusion; I said to myself, after all, this is not the first time I’ve been misunderstood around here. So, believe it or not, after being snubbed, I left that place still feeling upbeat, if this people can’t help me someone else would, after all I’m in tourist friendly Argao.

So I started to look for someone, I first spoke with an old gentleman who was cleaning the altar. “Wait for monsignor, he’ll come down for the first communion of the children, he can help you Sir”, so wait I did. After an hour the good Padre came down, as customary for Catolicos, I asked for his blessing by kissing his hand.

I never wasted time and went straight to the point. He then called the kind chap who endorsed me to him, he told him to get someone from the office. He went back with Divina, the supladita from the Parish office. Yes, it was Divina and me again; the priest gave her clear instructions in Bisaya, “get the key and assist him”.

After lying that I was arrogant and some other stuff that she made up to make the priest believe that I was a bad bad sightseer (thank God that I could understand the language) and throwing temper tantrums like that of a child, she then grudgingly said the magic words “yes, Father”.

After reaching her small office, she mockingly told me to wait, after 30 minutes, standing in front of her booth while she’s chit chatting and texting – I realized what this perra was trying to do. I was stupid to believe that this character will still help me, obviously she was upset about having to assist me after she had repulsed me the first time, there was no way in hell that she would help me now!

I then decided to leave, what a shame that the Parish have these cabrones in their payroll. If Argao wants more visitors, it has to make sure that the museum and church is being managed by capable hands – when I went to the  municipal tourist center to lodge a complaint (even if I know that the church operate independently from the local government) it was also close because according to a bystander at the municipio, “its Saturday!” – Isn’t it that weekends are when tourist usually comes?

These people in the parish office is just one small group, they don’t represent the town nor its values, too bad for me I met them. I would like to leave a piece of advice and a few words of wisdom for the parish employees: Take a moment to place yourself in the shoes of the tourists, who took time to visit your still splendid church (even after your parish priest ruined the retablo and the capella posas’) and its museum, tourist who traveled far and long to pay homage to the parish. Help ease their weary roaming bodies with some simple kindness.