NHI will soon unveil new historical markers in Carcar

Just got a word from Cebuano heritage blogger Knight Carl that the houses of the following families Noel, Silva and Lucero together with Balay sa Tisa will have historical markers soon. It’s about time! historcial recognition for these magnificent casas has long been overdue.

Why can’t we register all “bahay na bato” under NHI? If this will help prevent the old house’s destruction then why not?

The beautiful interior of Carcar's Iglesia

El Incansable de Nagcarlang

This beautiful town was where “Relacion de Costumbrez” and “Diccionario Tagalog-Hispano” was written. Literatures that are often neglected, barely studied in our history lessons. 1578 is when Nagcarlan was introduced to the great Franciscano Padre Juan de Plasencia. Here he wrote the extraordinary book  “Relacion de las Costumbres” with a dedication that reads, “Relacion de las costumbres que los indios solan tener en estas islas, hecha por Fray Juan de Plasenccia, de la Orden de San Francisco, y enviada a el doctor Santiago de Vera, presidente de la real audencia que reside en estas islas, Nagcarlang, 24 de octubre, 1589”. It was Santiago de Vera who sought Placencia’s help inquiring for, “information in regards to social & political organization of the Tagalo Indians”. Since Fray Plasencia strongly opposed the abuses of the Encomenderos, he thought it valuable to write about the Tagalog’s way of life so Spanish administrators will learn how to deal with them more humanely. It was because of his book that the basic sturcture of the “Barangay” was maintained. Although a central power exist in the state capital Manila, the “Barangay” was not entirely dissolved, in reality its administrative efficiency was greatly enhanced. Cabeza’s that were appointed are the noble Tagalogs – the respected leaders of the Barangay, they were respected even by the Friars, all their rights were preserved. Because of Christian teaching is in disagreement with the existing slaves system and Pagan practice, these are the ones that was removed by the Catholic administrators.

He was a known supporter of Bishop Salazar and stood with him during the first synod, where they strongly voiced their opposition against the abuses of some encomenderos. He was a firm believer in language inculturation. Considered as one of the first books that was ever made in the islas, Relacion de las Costumbres is without a doubt our first “civil code”. Here the Franciscan ethnographer gave details on the Tagalog’s way of justice, marriages, property and slavery. He provided the Spanish administrators with the concept of “barangay” and its social classes. It was because of his books (often copied, cited & quoted by famous historians like Blair and Robertson, de Tavera, A Morga) that we now understand how life was in the barangay, for without Placencia’s written record, it is doubtful if we would be able to appreciate the “balangay” as we do today.

Canto-llano: this one is housed inside an air tight glass to prevent it from being stolen.

Placencia mastered tagalog without books and formal lessons, he was firstly aided by a fellow Franciscan but learned it in short time that he was already on foot visiting settlements with Fray Oropesa a few months after arriving in the islands. He became so successful in converting natives he was voted as “custos” until he was replaced by another Spanish Franciscan, Pedro Bautista, who later became the martyr saint. His works in Arte and Vocabulario also intended for effective evangelazation. Other titles that are credited to the Franciscan are “Collecion de Frases Tagala” and “Diccionario Tagalog” (no copies of these two books exist today).

Contrary to what is taught in schools, that the reason why Spanish was not taught was to keep the “yndios” uneducated, printed history points to the reason why. Men like Placencia found it more potent to minister using the native language, “great spiritual fruit” are reaped from these labors a Spanish historian said. It was faster for them to learn native languages than make the natives learn Spanish – the strewn communities and small clans presented them with this unique condition. Filipinas they found out is not Mexico! Placencia made it clear his instruction when delivering the teachings of the church, “not to divert it from its original meaning and pronunciation in order that it would come out better understood by the natives”. History has exposed to us that because of this approach evangelazation was accelerated in all the islands, making the religion the first unifying character of what would be the “Filipino”.

An accounting of the Iglesias expenses by Padre de la Puebla (178?)

I appreciate the help of the parish office showing me these documents (they even removed the plastic cover for me) but its time to save these documents. These books now belong to the Filipino, a bigger and better National Archives should house these items for future generation.

In 1581, Catecismo de la Doctrina Cristiana was completed by Placencia. La Llave, the Franciscan’s biographer wrote, “he composed the Doctrina christiana in their language, and the Catecismo of the faith, which were entitled Togsohan (sic); and during the Provincial Synod called by the first bishop (Salazar) with the prelates of the religious and ministers, it was approved.  Until at present, it is still being used but already with some modifications”. Placencia’s “Togsohan”, which means “playful teasing” was a question and answer done in recited songs, Fr. Gutay in his essay, “in which one party asks a question to be anwered by the other party, the questioning and answering roles being given reversed alternately after the correct answer has been given.  It has a become a practice for the friars to apply some group dynamics like this to make the learning process more pleasant and attractive to the children”.

Filipino today know more about the Franciscan Damaso than Franciscan Placencia, which is unfortunate for without Placencia’s work we would have an unfilled gap in our memory of how our ancestors lived. Some historians prefer to rid Filipino history of such influence and contributions, which in my view is a denial of our heritage and our history, first as Christians and Filipinos. We should never confuse nationalism with such edenic principles.

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“Ecclesiam Dei illius morte magnam incurruisse jacturam, quia cecidit columna Christianitas” – Bishop Salazar, eulogy for Fray Placencia.

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Libingan ng mga Bayani

You know you're right! Gracias!

I usually visit old cemeteries before it gets packed with people for “undas”. Last year it was Paco park, which was once a beautiful cemetery. This year its the “Libingan ng mga Bayani”.

I enjoyed the peaceful and lush surrounding of the final resting place of our heroes. The silence is occasionally broken by small and big passing airplanes. The airport runway is just a few clicks away. Whenever a plane would land or take off you can hear its ear shattering sound below, so close that I hear ringing in my ears after – I wonder if the dead complains about this.

I entered the Libingan ng mga Bayani through the C5 area. Its a dangerous crossing but people do cross regularly. Since its not the proper entrance, some army guys  asked me where I’m headed. “May bibisitahin lang na kaibigan”. They probably thought I’m 100 years old to have friends there but I know they won’t probe. I was grateful that they allowed me because the main gate is about a kilometer far.

A German quote say that the “only real equality is in the cemetery”, I’m not sure if that can be said in the Libingan. There are VIP’s even in places like these. The extravagant tombs belongs to the generals and government officials. I’m sure the dead never ask for it. The rest of the resting only have simple white stone crosses. They died together now they’re all here. The countless burial crosses  scene from a distance is one of the most serene sight I’ve ever witness.

Every Filipino ought to visit this place and contemplate on the sacrifices of these Filipinos. They gave their all – will we do the same? Sacrifice according to a European thinker is the “passion of great souls”. So far our generation’s passion is the good life. What would be our contribution when Filipinos read about us 100 years from now? Oh yeah, its time to reexamine our generations role in rebuilding this great nation.

On my way out, I dropped by the National artist and scientist section. Unlike the overly adorned graves, theirs were very simple yet dignified. A popular blogger complains that it was “too simple”, I think it was fine. I’m sure our National Artist and Scientist, who lived modest lives, wouldn’t have it any other way.

I finally fulfilled my dream of meeting Nick Joaquin. Well, he’s six feet under but it was still a special time for fan like me. He’s was one of those people who greatly influence the way I look at Filipino history and life in general. His words redefined my concept of Filipino goodness and beauty. I’m sure he’s drinking his San Mig in heaven – plus ultra Sr. Nick!

One quite afternoon in San Pablo

Sampaloc Lake

Sampaloc seen from the viewing deck

It was an awesome feeling seeing Mt. Cristobal’s reflection in the still waters of Lake Sampaloc. Its water has improved, the air fresh, relaxing and breezy. It wasn’t always like this, in the 80’s, prolonged pollution made its water contaminated, dark , stinky, dead fishes every where – it was dying. Waste and unconsumed feeds were turning Sampaloc into one massive sewage. Fortunately, the local government and the people recovered their sense of duty for their environment and started to push for change. The strict regulation of fish pen operation was implemented. The lake from the 90’s until today has made remarkable improvement. Scientist call this recovery by “self purification”, meaning if you just leave  nature alone,  it would naturally recuperate.

But we’re not out of the woods yet – there’s still a lot of work to do. One of the stall owners near the lake said, “Hindi ko na inabot yun panahon na naiinom ang tubig diyan, pero inabot ko pa na diyan kami naghuhugas ng bigas pang-saing noong kami’y mga bata pa”. This man also said that the lake was once overloaded with fish pen, this resulted to the fast deterioration of water quality. Worst, he said, some fish pen operators were even rumored to be “outsiders”. Well, the lake is nowhere near its original pristine natural beauty but with everybody working together, at least we can keep it a “living lake”.

Dedicated to tilapia pioneers!

According to people around Sampaloc, the lake never overflows and never dries out even in the hottest summer. This probably explains why houses and some offices were confidently built along its shore. A huge Mormon-like church was erected along the road near the shore at the base of this building shanties a few meters away from the lake.

Now, Sampaloc is flanked with lovely bamboo restaurants and lil’ red sari-sari stores. For those who want to relax, this is a great place, its well-lit and a safe place during the nighttime. The stairway leading to the lake was improved by Pres. Diosdado Macapagal. The civic groups like the rotary have offices near the lake, they’ve contributed in the development of the parks along the lake but I must say some of the structures they’ve built were  eyesores. A huge tilapia monument greets its visitors, a dedication made to the Agahan couples for donating the first fingerlings that up to now has been source of livelihood to many.

Out of seven, I got to visit two: Sampaloc and Bunot (Bo. Concepcion) – both are located near the access road, less than a km apart The other lakes in San Pablo are Calibato, Pandin, Yambo, Palakpakin, and Mohicap. Local say that Pandin is the most beautiful. Not a really good batting average, next time it should 7 out of 7!

A Saintly Town

Still Beautiful

San Pablo has the highest number of barangay (barrio) named after Catholic patron Saints. They’re probably not aware of this very little known fact (but then again I could be wrong hahaha). Almost all of its old barrio were either founded or renamed after a saint during the Spanish era. There must have been a tradition that created this.

The completion of San Pablo’s christianization is attributed to the “vanguard of spiritual conquerors”, the Augustinos and the “Fratecelli”, Little Brothers as they were called by their founder, San Franciso de Assisi. After some years had passed, the Augustinian ceded its control over to the Franciscans. Like Vigan and many of the early towns of Luzon, it was founded by the brilliant “Hernan Cortes of the Philippines”, Juan de Salcedo, who surprisingly did not know how to swim and almost drown in Laguna de Ba’i  when his undersized boat capsized in his desire to reach the far flung settlements of the region.

When Salcedo placed the entire area under the Spanish crown, the Augustinian immediately started their spiritual work.  The Austin friars are known for their building genius and impeccable organizational skills. the San Pablo Cathedral and their many wonderful baroque churches scattered all over the islands (resistant and solid design has survived countless natural calamities and wars) are testament to their enduring commitment to Christianize the “yndio”.

The historic marker of San Pablo de los Montes

Sampaloc Legend

According to local legend the lake was once a tamarind farm and was turned into lagoon by an angry fairy. Hope she  reappears and return Sampaloc back to its original condition! Its interesting to note that Sampaloc trees, which are said to have grown abundantly in San Pablo are rare nowadays. Coconuts dominates the vast farms of the city and is the province biggest industry.

Unripe Sampaloc is best for sinigang of course and this has been its primary use before the Spaniards taught us to make sweets out of the humble “tamarindo”. The Mexicans called it “Tarugo” (literally means “blockhead”) and we did before we call it sampaloc candy. Tarugo today have very different meaning for the Tagalogs (you know what it is!).

Patis Tesoro, a designer admired for her use of local fabric, conceptualize an itinerary called “viaje del sol”, it promotes local restos and art centers in San Pablo and nearby Tiaong. If you have money and time to spare, it looks like a fun adventure for the family. As for me, the always underbudget traveler, I stuck with the buko pies and the cheap kakanin that I usually look for. Their buko pie is the best (period) and their brand of bibingka, wow! It has a very unique taste that it got from the use of dried coconut husk as “baga” for baking.

In the poblacion, near the Cathedral, several popular food chains and medium size buildings line the main the road. Everything a San Pableno could ever need is in this area. Here you’ll feel like you’re in the middle of the metropolitan. Its the busiest part of the town. There are old houses near the Cathedral, a lawyer owns a well-preserved American colonial. I’m a bit surprised that there aren’t any bahay na bato around, to think that San Pablo is the oldest city in Laguna. There were some that I noticed when I was on my way to Nagcarlan but most are nowhere near the ones I saw in Pagsanjan.

Brass commemorative plates are everywhere.

In the picture: Old Meralco, Monument for the Revolution, City hall, Old house

Robert Gardner wrote a beautiful piece about these heritage houses of ours that are slowly vanishing from our landscape, thanks to some of our kababayan’s ignorance and lack of appreciation to their ancestors and our Hispanic traditions. While our neighbors, Vietnam and Singapore are working hard towards conserving what’s left of their heritage structures, we’re busy disposing ours.

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Muntinlupa Floods: Relief still needed

The Servite Parish of St. Peregrine has been helping the poor Muntinlupa residents since they established their mission in the city in the late 80's. Photo: Taken in the Relic room, enshrined is a rib from the incorruptible body of St. Peregrin Laziosi.

There’s still a call for relief assistance in our city. Although flood water has receded in the higher areas, the residents living in the lakeside are still flooded. The situation is bleak as flood water is predicted to recede not until next year. Even government services were not spared, just this month Comelec Muntinlupa relocated to the Alabang public market because flood water was already affecting voter registration.

A letter from servite Fr. Alvin say, “This is going to be a long-term operations. I mean, the distribution of (temporary) relief. This has to be programmed in such a way that there will still be relief goods in the coming days, not a one-shot deal.”, reiterating the need for continuous support until everything gets back to normal in these affected areas.

Relief in any form are being accepted. Anyone who’s interested to share can contact the Parish at 842-2424 or visit their office at National Rd., Tunasan, Muntinlupa.
Arnaldo

A recent visit to Guadalupe

My writer friend, Pepe, yesterday wrote a wonderful tribute to a great Filipino church, the Guadalupe shrine in Macati. Yes, there exist an old church in highly-developed, starbucks laden “Makati”. The last time I was here was when a friend got married (and I got invited!) . The church is near an extremely crowded housing area but is fairly easy to locate. If your coming from EDSA you’ll pass by this tough looking neighborhood. Just be cautious and mindful and you should be okay.

There use to be grand old houses in Guadalupe, especially near the river belonging to affluent families of Manila. All were totally annihilated during the two great wars. After the so called “liberation”, both formal and informal dwellings sprung up like mushrooms after a stormy night in  Guadalupe.

The provincianos colossal exodus to Manila started after the rebuilding of the ever loyal city. With construction and business being initiated everywhere, oppurtunities abound in the former battlefield called Manila. Most of these provincial Filipinos suffered deeply during the war: with homes, properties and lives ravaged, they had sought refuge and hope in the capital city and its nearby towns.

US money is being poured in to key projects designed to transformed the land into an American model. The catch was that we give them equal party rights, which means they can exploit us and our resources without limit. The act was named after its author, Sen. Millard Tydings, also known for the Tydings-Mcduffie act (to give Filipinos independence to stop the influx of Filipinos migration to the US). A whooping $600 + million in exchange for everything we have. Now, thats some old school sell out!

This massive centralization of development (opposite the farming communities the Friars developed into decentralized pueblos and later ciudades) has drawn millions of Filipino settlers to an already congested metropolis.  Up to now, we still haven’t managed to resolve this problem. Unfortunately, during the Yankee occupation, we were made into a industrial territory when we should be agricultural. This market development strategy, made Filipinos increasingly more dependent on American products, money and with modest prosperity right after the recovery, we now needed  American protection – which of course was not provided free as they never truly improved our military but made us buy their junk so we could stay inferior and beg them for help every time we feel threatened. The recent admission of Arroyo over possible involvement of US in Mindanao is nothing new, we’ve always been dependent, something that Anti-US Senador Erap learned when he became President Erap, “Kailangan natin ang tulong ng America”. Add to this is our governments shameless plea for US money over the recent calamities.

That’s enough for now.

The last of the Filipino Pelotaris

I was the only screaming fan on the bleachers: "Go Manooooong!"

I love watching these senior guys go at it. The ancient Basque sport is still played occasionally at the back of Instituto Cervantes in Manila, where a parking space doubles as their fronton. Jai Alai is alive, at least in the hearts of these old timers. “kakaunte na lang siguro ang nakakapaglaro nito” say one aficionado. Donning the  sports traditional colored shirts, they hurled and returned the pelota (the fastest ball on earth) using their cesta, made of swooping wicker, strapped on their arms.

A legal ruling by the supreme court killed the sport of Basque pelota, declaring that it was “against the national interest” and that it can only be “franchised by the government”, with this, chances of reviving it played in the professional level are nil. Aside from the fellas I met in Kalaw, there is also an amateur group somewhere in Quezon City. But without the professional association and its tournaments, it will continue to wallow in obscurity.

The betting was the sports main draw, it was our alternative to horse racing and the sabong. The foreign players were called “Kastila” but they’re not, they are Basques (I’m sure they did not appreciate being called Kastila by the locals). My Father’s favorite was a pelotari named Greco, he even named a dog after the guy. I remember seeing the game  in the opening credits of Miami Vice, its still is a very popular spectator sport in Hispanic countries.

Jai alai at the sky dome (a wonderful art deco building demolished by Mayor Atienza) starts every afternoon, 14 games are played with 20 minute breaks in between. Just like in any Filipino gambling sports, viewers are loud often appearing unruly. My Father usually brings his eldest at the fronton (and also in San Lazaro my brother confess). In 1986, the games was stopped because of a game fixing scandal. There were several attempts to revive it but all failed because the government wants it stopped. Obviously, not enough money was going their way.

I was reminded of this sport when I read in the news that a group calling themselves Manila Bay Tourism & Jai Alai Corporation is seeking for the reinstatement of the centuries old sport in the country. I’m not really sure why its being opposed in the first place; if we have casinos, horse racing and sabongan – what on earth are all these people complaining about? If this new group is serious in making this happen, I say, let’s start throwing more money at it, shut these people up and lets play ball!

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