A German Town Called Wilhemsfeld

The Hill Town

I woke up around 5 in the morning, ate my usual breakfast and headed straight out to catch the earliest bus to Wilhemsfeld (pronounced ‘V’ilhemsfeld) the town where Rizal wrote the last chapters of his Noli. The importance of this town is monumental in our history. Here he found the inspiration to complete the book that changed the course of our destiny. If you’re retracing Rizal’s footsteps in Germany this town is a must visit.

The trip lasted less than an hour from Heidelberg. On my way up to the hills of what is known as Odenwald I saw countless old German houses. Before entering the forest area shrouded in mist and thick fog I saw modern houses sitting side by side with some of the oldest houses in the province. You’d think that a progressive and developed country eventually loses touch with its roots and traditional values – not the Germans. This morning was one of the coldest thus far for me. The elevation made the air much colder (I’m used to extremely hot weather so everyday here  feels colder than the last).

When Rizal moved from Heidelberg to Wilhelmsfeld there was only a mountain trail that he traversed on a regular basis to  Heidelberg. I wonder if it is this present road that is used now. How people traveled during winter must have been difficult in the old days. We’re so fortunate with the technology we have today. Traveling has become so easy. I don’t think I would last long if I’m going to walk my way up like what people did during those days – thank heavens, German’s have very good public transportation.

Around Wilhemsfeld

Finally, Wilhelmsfeld.

I reached Wilhemslfeld before 8am. During weekends you could hardly see a soul in the early hours. I noticed that Germans start their day late during the weekends. It felt like twilight zone walking around not seeing a single person. So I wandered like a cloud for some time until I found José-Rizal-Straße. I know not far is Pastor Ullmer’s house. Copper markers (or whatever it is called) by the Philippine consulate made it easy to locate. Interestingly, they wrote it in German. The house looks great, you wouldn’t know how old  it was just by looking. Not much has change in fact you could look at old photos of the house and you’d hardly notice any difference from what it looks like now.

Not far from the Pastor’s house is the church called Evangelische Kirche where Rizal attended services. The rolling hills in this beautiful German country is so peaceful, so wonderful (I heard that they’re actually a popular town resort). I’m not surprised that Rizal liked Wilhemsfeld. It reminded him of his hometown Calamba.

One thing that I noticed is that people seem to be more friendlier from around here. I guess they can recognize what Filipino looks like. The house gates were opened so I took the liberty and looked around. The owner, who was having her tea, went out and greeted me. She did not mind that I entered the premises without even ringing the doorbell. Never even asked what were my intentions. Realizing that I violated their space, I apologized to the owner but she said “its fine, its ok, welcome”. She was too kind and spoke very good English. She told me that I can comeback at a later time and talk to her husband (who was still sleeping at that time).  She said that they’ve seen several Filipino visitors including some leaders in the pass (I wonder who were those).

After my brief conversation with this kind lady I crossed the street and went to the red church just right across. There I met an old lady walking her handsome labrador retriever. I’ve never seen one with such a thick fur. The old lady does not speak English at all but she was telling me of a place a few blocks from where we were. I knew what she was talking about when I heard the word “platz” (which means park space or a plaza). She was giving me instructions on how to go to their Rizal Park! They really can tell what a Pinoy looks like from these parts.

Not far from the town’s ruthaus is a small park where the life size monument of Rizal can be found along with all his German friends that as we all know  greatly influenced him. A short alley (called Ullmer weg) named after his host, leads to the humble park. They drained the pond water that surrounds the statue I believe because it gets frozen. The small space is neatly kept and cared for. Surrounded by trees and memorial metal plates dedicated to Rizal and his German contemporaries. Last year, Calamba and Wilhelmsfeld forged a sisterhood pact which I thought was good between the two towns as they share a common past through their most outstanding citizens – Pastor Ullmer and Rizal.

I always complain about Rizal monuments back home, so many of them that I feel that it has lost its meaning but for the first time I really felt good seeing this one. Its like seeing an old friend – I’ve never been this thankful seeing a Rizal monument in my life. Germany would’ve been just another country for me if it were not for Rizal. The guy opened doors for us to be connected to world that was very different from our own. Rizal remains relevant not only because he traveled the world for us to see but also because the historical mission he thought his generation could carry out has not been completed. Somehow we have to figure out how to continue what his generation started.

Just before I went back to Heidelberg, this time an old man with a walking stick, approached me and asked if I needed help with anything. I don’t think he said it in English but I think that’s what he wanted to say. He was smiling all through out. I think people here are friendly towards someone like me because I’m Filipino. The story goes that Pastor Ullmer never hesitated to offer accommodation to Rizal and it was here that he perfected his German. The people from around here still carries with them that same generous character. They’re all Pastor Ullmer to every Filipino.

What was the yard is now the garage. This is the back side of the house. Beautifully maintained.

The house taken from a distance. The layout is different from what we Filipinos are used to. The main door is on this rightside. The backyard (now the garage) appears to be the facade but actually is not.

The actual address marker of Pasto Ullmer’s house. “Pfarramt” means rectory in English.

I can’t understand why Filipino officials here would write this in German – Well, I guess this force non speakers to learn some German. This reminds me of those NHI marker in the Visayas written in Tagalog. The marker reminds its viewer that this is the house where Rizal finished his novel.

The guy’s a rockstar. What I can say.

While the Germans wrote this one in English. These folks know who’d come here to see this sign. The marker points to the direction of Calamba which is 10361 km’s from here.

The church where Rizal heard services.

What a lovely town this Wilhemfeld is.

The signboard reads, “PARKFEST” at the Rizal Park.

Because of Wilhemsfeld’s hilly terrain, they have uneven roads that goes up and down. This is an esquinita called Ullmer Weg. A block away from the ruthaus. The street that leads to the park.

There he is! the man, the myth, the legend.

Going back to Heidelberg. This modern white building is the ruthaus, their version of a the municipio. More than a year ago, Calamba officials went here to sign a friendship pact with the town. There’s a post with a sign pointing to Calamba an how far it is from Wilhemfeld.

Calamba by Bike. Rizal @ 150!

What I discovered recently is how its so much better traveling around old towns in a bicycle. It won’t always be possible as tehre are limitations in the number of places you can reach but nothing  beats the health benefits (which I desperately needs!) and the mobility it affords.

Since I was expecting some rain (I usually check weather satellite reports) I counted on clouds keeping  the weather mild. I figured with that it would not be that hard to pedal my way from Muntinglupa to Calamba.

I passed by Binan, Sta. Rosa and Cabuyao with relative ease. There were no significant increase in elevation. I bought some liquids and apples along Sta. Rosa. As noon time drew closer the heat became more and more intense.

The heat was almost summer-like. I caught a break when it rained but it didn’t last long. Paid a high price as the sun scorched my skin and flesh on my way back home.

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In Calamba, the city government is installing overpasses for pedestrians. It appears similar to the one you find in Alabang. Several roads were closed and re-routed. I had to  push my bike and walk alongside people in narrow pathways for pedestrians. Traffic was terrible.

I find it funny when you ask people for direction. They’ll always tell you “malayo pa” (still far) but I would usually find out that its not. Filipinos are a friendly bunch. I’ve never been denied assistance in my years of traveling.

From Calamba crossing, Rizal’s house is just a few blocks away. There are several bahay na bato around. The city government must tap into the potential of promoting them as sites to visit in Calamba.

I lost count how many times I visited Rizal shrine. A lot of people are bothered with what NHI did a couple years back. Coloring the house light green (I’ve seen this in most part of Asia, paint is a good preserving agent). I see nothing wrong with it. I just hope that they’re using the right paints. Otherwise, it would do more harm than good.

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Ever since the 150th birth anniversary celebration the visitors has increased in number. And there’s good business to be had in selling Rizal souvenirs and books. I like the “Rizal Haligi ng Bayan” logo so I bought some stuff bring back home (two fridge magnet and a grocery bag).

I hope they’ll go beyond the lessons they learned from the house museum. Rizal’s a fascinating man. His life story is full of contrast, contradictions, of passion, of beliefs and fate, sacrifice -  for me, he’s the most amazing genius that ever walked the Filipino earth.

Like all Filipino heroes, Rizal, his life and his works, has been subjected to political and academic manipulation. Groups in the past and even today continue to cash in on his reputation and honor. Over time Rizal’s true message has been diluted by hidden agendas and conspiracies.

We need to look back and ask one question, Did we really follow his lead?

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NHI don’t get a  lot of funding but with the way they continue restoring and protecting heritage houses they deserve to be commended. I particularly remember the trial house in Maragondon where they extended their resources most fully. Of course, there’s a lot work to do, as there always is. I hope they’re up to the challenge because we are losing a lot of these historical houses at a very rapid rate.

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Some photos I took:

My first stop. Sta Rosa. Bought some refreshments and ate two medium sized apples (10 pesos each). A beggar came to me and asked for some change. Gave her two pesos. She wasn't happy with that. Blame your government for diluting the value of your currency lady, not me

Crossing Calamba bridge. People still wash clothes and take bathes here. I can only imagine how cleaner it was decades ago.

They call it "Mercado de Calamba". People are now beginning to understand the historical value of the Spanish language. Its strange that some historians made it appear that Rizal was against the use of Spanish as a language when it was he who wanted it to be used as a tool for Filipinos to exercise their freedom of speech, arts and their other liberties. The Rizal spoke Spanish in their home. According to a great grandson, Jose is addressed as "Don" in their Calamba home.

Rizal spuvenirs anyone?

Rizal @ 150 ala Warhol. This image is from his last studio portrait. I believe he was 29.

Aside from souvenirs, people that maintain the place sells "Mabolo" a smelly fruit that can be found all over the islands. There are several Mabolo trees around the shrine. There are thousands of places in the country named after this humble tree.

The Bahay na Bato has an architectural style that cannot be seen anywhere else.

I like the name, "Lecheria", the name suggest that this barrio is where dairy products were produced in Calamba. The hills is also the site of Calamba's ancient cemetery said to be reserved for non-Christians.

Rizal's Monte de Maquiling at a distance.

23 July 2011

Rizal at 150

Rizal at 150!

It’s amazing how time flies isn’t it?

The Calamba native, considered as the greatest Filipino hero of all, will be celebrating his 150th birthday.

Actually, we’ll be the ones commemorating since his long been gone.

Aside from his career as a writer for the “propaganda” we seem to have forgotten his other side. He had many sides – we gloss over his other talents.

Rizal today is the face that people have imprinted on their shirt like that of Che Guevara.

Do they even know what he stood for?

There so much we can learn from this guy.

That’s if we can go beyond the demified Rizal model we’ve been taught to imitate.

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Visita Iglesia

Probably, the most challenging trip in recent memory for me. Lacking sleep and rest, straight from work, with the hottest of seasons upon us – I committed to worship in all seven Yglesias I listed down from the other night with the help of Layug’s classic, “A Tourist Guide to Notable Philippine Churches”. The mission was to start from the church Pagsanjan back to San Pedro, from 10 in the morning until 3 in the afternoon.

I’ve embarked on such Visita Yglesia when I was younger but kalokohan always gets the better of me. When you’re young you don’t take these activities seriously. You’re on it because there’s nothing else to do during Viernes Santo. And then, you reach adulthood and you start to realize that there’s more to it than just being a trip. When you age, all of these traditions start to make sense. The meaning jumps out, it becomes clear.

The Iglesias on the list, in order: Pagsanjan, Sta. Cruz, Pila, Los Baños, Calamba, Cabuyao and San Pedro. I had to replace Victoria and Ba-I as there were very few roving jeeps going to these towns and I was under time constraint. I had to keep going and so decided to go to Los Baños and Calamba instead.

After covering roughly around 200 kilometers of traveling, using only public transportation which was fast becoming infrequent as the clock nears 3 pm, I reached the last Yglesia, the final stop – pass 3 in the aftrnoon time.

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Pagsanjan, Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe

This church, first built in wood and nipa by Father Agustin de la Magdalena in 1687, was reconstructed in 1690 by Miguel Guan-Co and Aguacil Mayor Alfonso Garcia, improved in 1853 by Father Joaquin de Coria and its transept added in 1872 by Father Serafin Linares and cipriano Bac. The Church was damaged during the WWII. Its three level early renaissance façade has a semicircular arched main entrance and choir loct window. On its left is a three storey bell tower topped with a dome.

The church houses the image of Our Lady of Guadalupe. The original image, a gift from Mexico, was stored in the main altar in 1688 but was destroyed during the American air raid on 15 March 1945. In 1946, Mexican Catholics donated a life size image of the Virgin made by Ramon Barreto, a noted sculptor from Toluca. Another image was sculpted by prominent Manila Sculptor Maximo Vicente is also housed in the Church.

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Sta. Cruz, Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Concepcnion

First built by the Franciscan Father Antonio de la Llave in 1608, this church was enlarged in 1672 by Father Miguel Perciva with the addition of two wings (giving the church the form of a cross). It was improved in 1850 by Father Juan Antonio Marzo, who built the principal nave and convent and remodeled the five altars. The church was destroyed during the 18 July earthquake. It was reconstructed by Father Antonio Martin de Vidales  in 1881, assisted by Filipino Father Gregorio Ercilla, his coadjutor. On 26 January 1945, the church was partly destroyed by fire during the liberation in the WWII, leaving only the walls and stairs of the convent. It was reconstructed in 1948 through the initiative of Father Mariano Limjuco.

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Pila, Church of Saint Anthony of Padua

The town’s church was first built in 1618 but was transferred to its present location in 1800 due to frequent flooding The present structure was built in 1849 by Fathers Antonio Argobejo and Domingo de Valencia, badly damaged during the 18 July 1880 earthquake (Its bell tower toppled), repaired by Father Damaso Bolaños and finished by Father Lope Toledo. The convent, completed ini 1849, was also serisouly damaged during the 1880 earthquake.

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Los Baños, Church of Immaculate Conception

The church was first built as a chapel from 1613 to 1727. Destroyed by fire, It was rebuilt in stone on its present site by Father Domingo Mateo in 1790. The belfry, sacristy and tile roofing were supervised by Father Manuel Amat in 1852. The convent and bell tower were destroyed during the 1863 earthquake but repairs were made during the administration of Fathers Manuel Rodriguez and Gilberto Marin in 1880.

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Calamba, Laguna

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Cabuyao, Church of St. Policarp

This church was first built in 1637 along the lakeshore in what is now Barrio Marinig. A big flood in 1763 destroyed he church. The present structure, built further inland in 1771 was renovated in the 1970’s. Its bell dates from 1850. Bullet holes in the churchs stonework date back to the 1935 Sacdal Massacre.

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San Pedro, Shrine of Sto. Sepulchro

Home of the miraculous Sto. Sepulchro of Barrio Landayan.

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Thank you Lord Jesus.