Manila – Chicago – Baguio

What does these three cities have in common?

All hired an American urban planner by the name of Daniel Burnham. In Manila and Baguio, he was appointed by his government after they annexed the country. The Chicago local also worked on urban blueprints for cities like Washington D.C., San Francisco and Cleveland.

That area, just outside Intramuros, where those neo classical building stands (creations of pioneering Filipino architects, most notable was Juan Arellano) was built following Burnham’s urban plan.

Burnham envisioned an improved city representing his America. Wide roads, scenic boulevard, spacious parks, gardens and imposing government offices.

Among the topics he tackled in his 1905 plan was keeping Intramuros vibrant and attractive. Believing it would provide a wonderful historical contrast to his new Manila.

The only alteration that he proposed was for Intramuros’ moat to be covered with earth (now a golf course).

Burnham also recommended to develop the esteros to be used as pathways for commerce and transport. Unfortunately, these were never carried out. Many expert believes the plan would have eased the recurring floods in the city. Some of those esteros he saw are now gone.

A better example of Burnham’s city planning was executed to a detail in Baguio. The summer home of American military and civil employees. At the center of his plan is a gracious park and garden with a wide pond. Today, aptly called Burnham park.

Here in Chi town, Burnham not only proposed improvements in the city’s layout, he also dabbled in designing skycrapers. Now preserved and promoted by the city as Chicagoan heritage.

The scenic lakefront is a great Burnham legacy. In it lies the iconic Navy Pier (which once served as a Navy training facility and local convention center). Burnham had proposed 3 more piers for Chicago but just like what happened to his other recommendations, they were never carried out.

The famed architect was known for big, grand designs that startled his clients. Clearly, his visions was ahead of his time. Indeed, a man who had preference for making no small plans.

A clear day in Chi town. Seen from Willis Tower (formerly Sears).

Here’s not so clear a-day.

Not by Burnham but by the Burnhams. A building designed by D.H. Burnham’s sons.

The city as seen from Chicago’s Navy Pier.

Walking along on a  cold breezy night at Navy Pier.

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For further reading on Burnham, I stumbled upon this awesome resource on line click here . The guy (or gal) certainly knows the subject. Cheers!

Old Islamic Enclave in Singapore

An old Islamic school. Singapore’s heritage architecture shows a variety of styles and influences.

Lined up in a row. These shop houses, most probably, pre World War II, reflects Chinese and European architecture.

Colorful old buildings characterized by wide, adjustable windows and arched entrance ways.

Narrow streets that reminds me of old Binan. The narrow streets is a sign of expensive realty, as people had to make use and utilize available space as much as they can

This area have shops that specializes in selling traditional fabrics. This area is near the gate of the Masjid. Not far from here is what people call the central business district.

Solidly built heritage structures, now all shops.

White painted commercial houses preserved for the future generation

I saw a poster of the Sultan Mosque (locally known as Masjid Mosque) in the mall and found it wonderfully enchanting. A heritage Mosque in a middle of a bustling city. National day is just around the corner here in Singapore and the government has been heavily promoting heritage structures that represents the different groups and faith in the islands.  I got curious and thought it a good idea to see the mosque because like Manila, Singapore was once predominantly Mohamedan (for old Tagalogs Mohammed  is “Mahoma” hence the saying “Panahon pa ni Mahoma”).

Early this year I attended the National Library’s exhibit “Stories Behind Singapore Streets” (I think the exhibit is still on going) and found what local historian’s refers to as the “Raffle’s Town Plan”.  The British governor mapped and zoned the entire island during his time in the former colony. Such zoning (sectores) also took place during the Spanish era in Manila and all other progressive towns. To get a picture of how this worked back in the day one can visit Malolos which still have the names of the “sectores” as it was implemented in the old days.

Raffles is regarded as the pioneer of modern Singapore and I’ve seen books about his life on sale here. Singaporeans have a mature perspective about  their historical evolution and its influence in their modern lives. Around the country, you could still find street names after British royals, British war heroes and even English countrysides. They’re not bothered by these colonial things. What matters to them is what they’ve accomplished when they became independent from the British and Malaysia. Filipinos on the other hand are easily persuaded to give up their historical heritage and replace it with something else. We habitually, for example, change streets names as though they represent nothing more but alphabets. We don’t seem to understand the importance of preserving historical names.

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I discovered that the mosque is surrounded by old shops and residential streets that I’ve never seen before. The mosque is located in the Streets of Muscat and Northbridge. This is not the original, as it had to be expanded because of the growing Muslim population. This present structure was built in the 1920′s, interestingly it was designed by a westerner named Denis Santry.

I was impressed by how they managed to preserve the area around the mosque. The district, known as Glam Kampong, is surrounded by towering buildings of is known as central business district. The coexistence of old and new here is something that has long fascinated me. How I wish this is the case in Manila! And I believe that this is possible back home only if we have the the vision to find use for our old buildings.

The pressure to develop space for urban use is real everywhere. Much more in Singapore because they have very limited space but what they do well is manage urban development in a way that it doesn’t harm their historical relics. We’ve seen how urban expansion devastated the heritage structures of Manila, which have bigger space and more options when it comes to urban planning. How Singapore has zoned out certain districts away from development is something we all can learn from.

I would not know that there was an old Muslim settlement in the center of Singapore if I have not seen this district. Although, aside from the mosque, the structures around the district does not appear to be heavily influenced by Islamic art. Its historical significance is that here, their royal and merchant ancestors showed the world the beauty of their culture and religion. This is the beauty of conserving what’s left of the past – it reminds people. The old houses and shops are now mostly commercial spaces but this is good because as long as these structures are utilized – they’ll continue to exist. Architectural reuse is something that our local government in the Philippines needs to catch on. Fast. Before we lose everything.

An old shop converted to a Mexican bar with Aztec inspired murals

An old building sandwiched between modern buildings. Some space eventually must be conceded to land development but historical houses must not be removed totally as they represent the different historical strata of each state.

Taken from Beach Road. At night, the place comes alive with some fine dining restos and pubs.

Motel here enjoys a better reputation than hours. This one, obviously an old building, now reused to accommodate transient visitors and lovers of course.

An old housing building converted to shops

An MMA shop housed in what used to be a small house! Brock manning the door!

San Miguel Beer Bar @ Changi

The brand is a genuine Filipino original. It enjoys bigger following even in countries like Hong Kong and  Singapore. I found this booth in Changi Budget Terminal serving passengers waiting for their flights back home.

The San Mig Booth

We don’t have a lot of big international brands that are well-known all over the world. So I get excited, like most Filipinos, when I see one abroad. The branding in South East Asia is that San Miguel is the “Great Asian Beer” – and I believe that it is. No good Filipino disputes this fact!

The biggest names in Asia are Kirin (owns 15% of San Miguel), Singha, Sapporo, Tiger, Chang, Lao, Tsingtao and Taiwan beer. The biggest are the ones from Japan that I heard are brewed in North America.

San Miguel has been brewing beers for over a hundred years. Making it the oldest among the other Asian brands. Tiger, who enjoys a huge chunk of SE Asian market , only started brewing around the 1940′s.  SMB has a brewing tradition that’s unmatched by any other beer maker -  more than 100 years of perfecting their beer formula – almost as old as Heineken and Coors.

Legends has it that the Soriano’s made a secret deal with the Americans during the liberation days to spare the brewery in San Miguel. The building were among the only few standing structure after the city was almost leveled to the ground by the vicious American assault. Did they intentionally avoided hitting the brewery to ensure Manila’s beer kept flowing for the thirsty GI long after the Japs are gone?

Like the famous champagne named after the French monk cum master wine maker, Dom Pérignon, the San Miguel recipe is said to had been first concocted by the religious Recoletos for medicinal purposes. Well, possibly for a good time as well, who knows. A German guy (brought in by the first Soriano that got involved in SMB during the early 1900′s) is credited for perfecting the beer into what it is now. Interesting is that the first bottled products rolled out of the Manila factory in an October day – the month when the German’s celebrates their beer festival – “oktuberfest”.

There are countless men who made invaluable contribution, not only to the beer’s taste, but to its survival as a profitable venture. The most important of which is that of the founder, Sr. Enrique Maria Barretto y Ycaza. He sought the approval of the Spanish Queen for his beer during a time when the monarch was dealing with so many issues and problem plaguing her empire. Barretto had his eyes in supplying beer to South East Asia. With his Royal grant, he begun the first ever beer brewery in the region – “La Fabrica de Cerveza de San Miguel”.

“When you have to ask the Spanish Monarch for a permission to brew a beer you had better brew a GREAT BEER!”.

Manila Bay Sunset as Seen from a Reclaimed Land

The last time I was in SM MOA was about three years ago competing in a Brazilian Jiu Jitsu meet and it was around December. During the competition, when the sun is about to go down the horizon, I would take time to look at it to relax my mind but I never really got to enjoy it since the activities of the day are way too demanding.

"How I'd like to see the sunset, coming down Manila bay, like the magic of the golden gate, down in San Francisco bay"- Ramon Jacinto in "Freedom in the Sun"

Right after the BJ Penn open workout I finally got some time to sit and watch the sunset from the breakwaters of this reclaimed area. There’s something about the bay’s sunset that fascinates people. Young and old gazed on it like a lost lover. A lot of them, like me, kept on taking snap shots until the sun completely slipped over the horizon.

The bay’s sunset is legendary and had been recorded in the annals of Filipino history as an occasion that is treasured not only by Manileños but all Filipinos and foreigners alike.

I was surprised to see several small fishing boats around the bay (madami pa din palang nangingisda dito). They’re probably from Cavite. Hearing the echoing sound of the motorized boats and seeing fishermen in action brought back memories of my time in Visayas.

I kinda miss seeing the simple provincial life. When you stay near the coast you regularly see fishermen going about their business. I find it so romantic and interesting. Maybe its not that bad if you own a boat and sell your catch. There’s some freedom in traditional livelihood we today associate with hardship and poverty.

My father introduced me to Manila Bay when I was around 4. Manila was very different then from the one we see today. When I was in high school I started imagining myself living in one of those high rise hotels that faces the bay. I picture myself having merienda watching the sunset in a veranda or something.

Near CCP is where my father usually swims. This is his form of exercise (he loves walking also) and he’s an excellent swimmer. Unfortunately, he failed to pass it down to me. I guess some people are just not meant to swim. The big rough stones pose a danger to us kids so Papa never goes far from us. I remember seeing some parts of the coast where there were some sandy shores and carinderias – today, almost the entire stretch are walled with concrete. Another sad development is that the bay is no longer safe to swim in.

Manila bay sunset is still beautiful – It will remain this way forever – but Manila the city is a totalmess. Well, it has been governed by bozos for some time. Traffic, housing and crime are getting worst. One day, a leader of Mayor Lacson’s determination and commitment will bring back the old Manila.

Enjoy.

EDSA for now…

Filipino politicians are always trying to rewrite history by replacing traditional street names with whatever fits their moods and interest. EDSA highway is now being threatened by yet another attempt to have it named after Cory. Its as idiotic as renaming a street after someone who grew up in it (plenty of examples of this serial disregard of history).

Are there no more important issues to discuss in congress these days?

The Boholano congressman probably never read about Senador Roxas’ previous attempt to rename EDSA. Roxas exactly had the same intention – name it after Cory. He abandoned his plans after finding out how unpopular his idea was – he doesn’t want to deal with issues that could affect his electability (he was running for VP then).  I think he would have lost more votes if he insisted. Another senator, Dick Gordon, pushed hard for replacing another historical symbol – the flag. He sees the first republic’s flag as not representing our Muslim brothers. The guy is smart but this made me cringe – I didn’t know the flag is supposed to represent a group or a religion. What I know is that it should stand for the history and aspirations of our founding fathers. I would have voted for him if it were not for this crazy idea of his.

What’s exciting is that no one wants these changes made anymore – it is as if Filipinos have awaken from a long sleep. People are now rejecting what before would have not even made the tabloids. Now everybody is talking. If we continue resisting these idiotic laws, soon, these politicians will lose their appetite trashing history. So, while I’m bothered by the way some of our leader think, I’m happy seeing this renewed vigilance of our young people. I’m pretty hyped!

A few weeks ago, the Batangas Governor’s proposal to put an ala-hollywood Batangas sign in Taal and it drew so much negative criticism from all over the country that the Batangas’ politicians had to go on the defensive. Their proposal became a goldmine for jokes and ridicule in the social media sphere. I was smiling from ear to ear hearing the Batangas politicians trying to explain their side in prime time news – they don’t know what just hit them.

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In Negros,there’s this wonderful coastal town once called Saravia. We have fisher folk relatives there that my mother used to visit when she was younger. The town, according to her, was popular for their brand of kinilaw and scenic seascape. When I brought her to Negros recently she was shocked to find that they renamed the entire town after Enrique Magalona (grandfather of the late Francis M). She asked “how was that possible?’, I don’t know if there was ever a consensus to have the town renamed but my view is that such changes only serve to diminish the historical significance of a town because a name, whether for a person or a place, represents identity.

But in a country where politics is a circus what can we expect! There was even a time in our history that politicians was pushing for the name of the country to be changed.

These people are unbelievable. Crazy.

Noynoy, an Apology is in Order

What’s wrong with apologizing to the survivors and relatives of that terrible Luneta hostage taking?

The so called rescue was bungled and ended up in tragic deaths. So many lives lost. The situation was mishandled from the start. Unfortunately for this president, The responsibility goes up the chain.

Its not usual practice for a leader of an independent state to apologize for its past errors. I know. The Japanese won’t do it, the American’s will never do it and so many powerful nation that once seized land, people and resources in the past will never admit to their empires trespasses.

But we are not these nations. We are better than them. We had been victims before and has long been seeking apologies and closure like the family of these victims.

All these bravado in Malacanang would lead to nowhere.

The Chinese, well, they’ve been bullying us lately over the Spratlys. Shame on them. But that’s the government and not the people. Lets leave these things out and be Christians enough to admit our shortcomings.

No one wanted that to happen. But it happened because of how it was handled.

The world saw what happened in Luneta. We can’t hide the facts. Let’s face it. Its time to man up and apologize.

What about suicide bombers killing people in other parts of the world? do the governments have to apologize for each and every foreign nationals that gets killed? Well, first, the Luneta hostage taker was an ex-cop, a former gov’t employee, second, he did that because he believe that his case was mishandled by the government and third, well, we all saw how it ended.

The government created this monster and failed to take him out when he became a crazy murderer.

Now, I heard that they’re asking for compensation. We better look into that as well. But that’s money. So that would be tougher to provide [the coffers had been badly looted in the past] but hey, if we apologize they might not ask for it anymore.

I hope.

Malolos: In Panorama

The Kapitolyo or Capitol building. A white classical building with wide squared columns. The seat of provincial government.

The last time I visited this place I was in secondary school. Back in the early 90’s, a brother purchased a small but tidy house in this Bulaqueño town. It was for a bargain price. It is now leased to a family for a very reasonable rent with the conditions that they keep it in order and that they make no changes. But just before it was put up for leasing, we had to refurbish and fix the house. The summer of ’91 was when I spent the whole vacation break in this historic town. The house is less than a kilometer drive from the Kapitolyo.

Aside from the historic Barasoain, the first seat of the republic, there are the old buildings and houses I vividly remember. I’ve always wanted to go back so I can document the district in pictures. It was a unique and memorable experience then, as I was already into history, spending a summer in Malolos heightened my interest in old houses specially those that played an important role in our history.

Malolos, as we all know, was the seat of Aguinaldo’s government. What brought him to Malolos was not only the support of its populace and its prominent families but the town’s layout, which seem to be perfect for an administrative complex not to mention the proximity with Manila. At that time that they have not abandoned the hope of getting back to Manila – after all, history tells us that whoever controls the capital controls the state. But I’ll skip the critical points for now and just enjoy the town that we know and love.

If I’m not mistaken, Malolos is about 50 km from Manila. But don’t take my word for it – what I’m certain about is it’s less than an hour trip without traffic from the Baliwag bus station in Cubao. Of course, you could forget about counting time if you’re caught in bad traffic in highway 54.

The best place to start a historic tour of Malolos is in the Capitol building. Built in the early 1900’s it was destroyed and razed by the Japanese during the war. It was rebuilt by American funding, just like all government building in 1950’s. The spacious park in front of the building is perfect for for picnics, during the rainy seasons it becomes lush and green. Events from pageants to political rallies are held here. Not to miss is their version of walk of fame, where they’ve etched the names of honored National Artists’ and known personalities from the town in black marble stones.

The Capitol museum located in the far right corner of the Capitol compound was renamed Blas Ople. The great Bulakeño from Hagonoy is someone I admire for his prescience and depth of knowledge in Philippine historiography. The Premio Zobel awardee has steadily advocated the preservation of Spanish during his political career because of historic and economic reasons. It is not his first language. His bust stands in the main door entrance of the museo.

From the here going to Barasoain is a quick jeep ride. You can also walk if you  want. Just like in the old days, the route is still dominated by the undersize karatig jeeps which fits the small town feel of Malolos. The Barasoain church has remained the same, which is what we want since we’ve seen countless heritage structures go to waste. The only changes were the improvements made for the NHI museum located on the second floor of the old convent. It was truly awesome and inspiring to see the enthusiasm of the officials who made the project possible.

The first Cojuanco lived here. A Chinese who converted to Catholicism, marrying a local girl. He was an artisan who later moved to Paniqui.

The attractive courtyard can be seen from upstairs. The palm trees and other plants help maintain the spacious garden cool during these hot summer days. After spending some time walking in and out of the Church I then decided to head out to the Cojuanco house. The Chichingco relatives of the Cojuanco’s are the caretakers of this elegant looking old house, now decorated with yellow ribbons and banners of Noynoy. The house was said to have been the temporary home for some revolutionary leaders. It is said that Ysidra Cojuanco, daughter of Jose met Antonio Luna and fast became lovers. What is gossip to many is true history to many other (read Henares take on this here). Jose Cojuanco was said to have decided to move to Paniqui because of Ysidra’s unwanted pregnancy. Many believe the son was that of Luna. Ah, the marvelous world of historical gossips!

Next stop is the Casa Real. Unlike the Cojuanco house which was inaccessible to the public, this one is, being administered by NHI in cooperation with an association of women called “Kababaihan ng Malolos”, in homage of the brave women of the town. Entrance is gratis. The Casa is preserved and beautifully kept with many interesting pieces from the women of Malolos. Made of ladrilyo and mortar this administrative building was built in 1786 but it was in this same location that the original was also erected.

Going to the Cathedral you’ll pass by an arched roman bridge that has amazingly survived the test of time. The Cathedral became the official office of Aguinaldo, there were bronze statutes of the General and his leaders in the church yard under a tree that they call the centennial tree. The interiors was splendid although it has been repainted and repaired many times.

The best preserved house in Malolos. The Adriano house along Pariancillo.

The other antillean houses can be seen from here as they are not far. The Municipal building is located right in front, while walking along the old Parian will reveal more beautiful historical houses. One has to keep in mind that the Republic headed by Aguinaldo practically converted the town into an administrative complex, making government offices out of residential spaces. This is what’s so unique about Malolos. That is of course aside from having the distinction of giving birth to Asia’s first republic.

Old cannons, bronze commemorative plaques, monument, even their own version of the walk of fame! The parque of the Capitol welcomes the weary souls and offer them peace in the middle of busy ciudad Malolos.

Finally, back where it all begun. The spirit of 1896 lives on! Viva la Yglesia de Barasoain! Viva Malolos!

The Barasoains Garden seen from the second floor of the convento.

The Cathedral where Aguinaldo held office. It became his Palacio Presidential.

The Interior of the Cathedral of Malolos. This Neo Classical church was rebuilt many times. One of its restorations was headed by the Recollect Saint Ezekiel Moreno who from 1859-1872 repaired the damaged foundations and walls caused by the massive earthquake of 1863.

The Lomotan house. In this same street the Bautista house, painted green, can be found. In front of Lomotan is the location of the School for the women of Malolos.

Calle Pariancillo where the houses of the old Malolos family of Arcadio Ejercito, Adriano ( Meralco today), Tiongson (demolished in the 80's), Cervantes (now a jeep terminal). The Carcel (Detention Center) is on the other side but has long been abandoned and altered. The Ejercito's of Malolos are the ancestors of Erap, whose Father was a prominent Engineer in Pagsanjan.

On the other side it'll be hard to miss this Palacial house of the Santos'. Builtin the early 1900's.

This is just a stone throw away from the big white house belonging to the same family. It is now the headquarter of K of C.

An old house in Canalete. Probably familiar to many, countless tv and movies has been shot here. Its near the river and the old place called Bihonan.